Engine Overheat
The fan clutch shouldn't matter at high speeds. It is really to help to
move air when the engine is idling or moving slowly to increase the air
moving through the radiator.
There is a problem with 22R 22RE engines called temperature overshoot.
The thermostat doesn't react quick enough after the engine is started.
So, the engine gets real hot before the thermostat opens, then
everything is fine after that.
pn #90916-03070 is a special dual stage thermostat that cures this
problem. I have it in my truck.
Anti-freeze
Date: Wed, 19 Apr 2000 12:15:48 -0600 (MDT)
From: Giffin Michael J <Michael.Giffin@Colorado.EDU>
Subject: Re: Hmm - Hot water
exactly how does water treatment get rid of ethylene glycol? water
treatment plants are designed to reduce the levels of enteric bacteria
that can cause all kinds of diseases, but are not concerned with
hazardous organic wastes which are not even supposed to be present in
sewage waste. and its good that most of you would not drink the stuff:
it will kill you. it is processed by the same enzyme, alcohol
dehydrogenase, your body uses to
process another organic toxin, ethanol. but the product of EG processing
is quite toxic. the best way to survive EG ingestion is by consumption of
ethanol, which acts as a competitive inhibitor of ADH.
bacterial hazards are not the same as organic hazards: your body is far
better euipped to fight off basteria than toxic organics, so you can not
compare the two. it does not take much EG to render 100s of gallons of
water undrinkable. this is even more extreme for petrochemicals, like
motor oil.
- -------------------------------------------------------------------
"I was demoted from lead guitar to rhythm and finally to the bass.
There was always a frightful fear I would land up as the drummer."
-Roger Waters, 1965
Michael Giffin giffin@colorado.edu
Department of Biochemistry http://ucsu.Colorado.EDU/~giffin/
University of Colorado-Boulder 303-492-5591
- -------------------------------------------------------------------
Fan Clutch
Subject: Fan Clutch
As another post has already stated, the fan clutch should work harder when
hot than when cold. This is due to fluid coupling within the unit. Here
are some tips that I have learned over the years about fan clutches:
1. Tie a kite string around the fan blade to a fixed point in the
engine bay while the vehicle is cold. As it warms, the fluid should couple
the clutches to eventually break the string.
2. Take a section of garden hose and stuff it into the moving fan with
the engine at operating temps. The fan should be very hard to stop, if you
can stop it at all. (The usual safety disclaimers apply here. I have done
this test and my fan never did stop, it just beat the section of hose
mercilessly. Be careful when doing this at home..)
3. The coupling oil itself IS available at your local Toy dealer,
although they usually reserve this for the mechanics that are freshening up
the fans on service work. You must ask specifically for this special oil.
I think it was about $8.00 for the container. This was the correct amount
to drain and replenish a clutch fan. Note: an impact driver helps to
separate the fan pieces once out of the vehicle.
Ed Fisher
Fuel System Cleaner
Subject: Re: Fuel Injector Cleaner
>Awhile back, there was some discussion of fuel injector cleaners, and
>several mentioned success with a product called BG44K. I haven't been able
>to find this product locally, and was wondering if anyone has the
>manufacturer's phone number so I could find a dealer? TIA.
Check the Toyota dealer. That's where I bought some.
Allen Dickenson
Fuel Injectors
Date: Thu, 6 Apr 2000 16:56:30 EDT
From: DOARACING@AOL.COM
Subject: Re: 86 22re 4runner Help
The spray pattern of the factory ND re injectors is terrible! This accounts
for many a poor idling re motor. If you still are using the OEM, unbalanced
injectors, then have this service performed.
Tim @ DOA
Fuel Injectors
Date: Thu, 8 Jun 2000 10:34:10 -0500
From: "Lance Morin" <lance.morin@netzero.com>
Subject: Re: fuel injector instalation question
YES, I didn't the first time and mine leaked pretty bad. The next time, I
used the Toyota FIPG and it took care of the leaks. Other silicon gasket
compounds should work also. All the Toyota mechanics I've talked to
recommend gaskets in critical areas like this.
Did you ever get around to installed that 5-speed tranny yet? I still have
that t-case that goes with it if you have problems with the other one.
Lance Morin
FWD-FWD
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Bob Cohen <boco@alpha.lehman.cuny.edu>
To: <toy4x4@moab.off-road.com>
Sent: Wednesday, June 07, 2000 4:57 PM
Subject: fuel injector instalation question
> I just recieved rebuilt injectors for my 22re 85 runner thanks to Tim at
> DOA. Should I put any compound on the gasket between the intake manifold
> and the air box distibutor.
>
> thank
>
Engine Bearing Knock
From: Jim Brink <toytech@off-road.com>
Subject: Re: Time for a new engine...?
bill miranda wrote:
>
> This is mainly directed at Jim Brink, or others in the know...
>
> I am currently hearing a light tapping... metal on metal coming from the rear
> of my engine (3.0 V6). It increases with revs... up to a point then it goes
> silent. Let the revs drop and it starts coming back. Does this sound like a
> main bearing problem? If it is, what would it run to repair? My question is
> basically,.. repair or replace with a 4.3 Chevy?
This could be a couple of things. I'd attribute it to either valve
adjustment or an exhaust leak at the exhuast crossover and/or manifold
to exhaust pipe flange. Main/rod bearings have a heavier knock sound to
them and usually occur at 1/2 engine rotation. Does the motor exhibit
any other problems other than that noise? No sense in replacing it if
only minor repairs/maintenance is needed.
- --
Jim Brink, Manhattan Beach, CA
Knocking Sound
It's an '89 22rec 4wd w/ 5speed trans and a standard cab. The problem is
> that I'm getting a bit of ignition pinging. I did check to see if the knock
> sensor was disconnected, but it all looks fine. I notice that the
> pre-ignition pinging is much worse with the air conditioning on.(the
> compressor is a substantial load...)
>
> The pre-ignition is usually at its worst when I'm maintaining a constant
> speed and light throttle, say 35 to 50, and the air conditioning is on. If
> I step on the throttle, the pinging stops. If I turn the A/C off, it pings
> much less, and less often.
> I was thinking I should check the TPS adjustment, but I only have the specs
> for an 86 truck. Are they the same? I have the timing set at 5degrees
> BTDC at an idle. Knock sensor connected (first thing I checked)
Hi Eric,
This sounds to me like the classic symptoms of a dirty, disconnected, or
malfunctioning EGR system. The first thing to check would be the vacuum
lines associated with the EGR including the EGR backpressure hose. If
all the hoses are connected, remove the EGR vacuum modulator and see if
air passes through it. Occasionally, this modulator will clog or get
dirty and block the vacuum supply to the EGR valve. Sometimes you can
get away with cleaning the modulator filter, other times, it will need
to be replaced. Check the EGR valve itself by applying vacuum to it and
see if the engine stalls or runs rough.
Timing sounds to be right on, 5 degrees BTDC. Check out the EGR first.
Hope this helps!
- --
Jim Brink, Manhattan Beach, CA
Where is Knock Sensor
I asked this question last weekend too. Someone told me its the sensor
located on the intake, in between injector #2 , right up against the side
of the valve cover (right over the oil filter, but on the top of the
intake). My timing was kinda off, so I thought that's what was causing it.
But I switched to a SR5 cluster, before replacing the timing chain, and
didnt get the smaller bulb housings, so I dont know if I'm still getting the
52 code or not.
Anyone know what the fix is for this? Is the sensor bad or what?
Any help would be much appreciated.
Art
TLCA #8472
Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1999 14:56:57 -0700
From: Rey Nicolas <Rey_Nicolas@digi.com>
Subject: knock sensor ???
Adjust Air Flow Sensor
Original Post
Subject: Re: Adjustable Air flow sensor?
Check out http://www.celicas.org/mods/afm.html for a general overview of
the procedure.
Before you open up the AFM, though, be aware that it is a violation of
federal law to tamper with emissions control equipment. Heh heh.
That said, the procedure described on the above page will get you
started, but the process of fine tuning this is best done by reading the
Vf output of the ECU, as described very concisely last week by Ed Wong:
>The proper way to calibrate the MAF is to use the Vf output.
>
>According to the info I have seen (web page for this seems to have
>disappeared)
>0.0v = rich (trim by 11%-20%)
>1.25v = slight rich (trim by 4%-10%)
>2.50v = normal (tim plus/minus 0% to 3%)
>3.75v = slight lean (enrich by4%-10%)
>5.0v = lean (enrich by by 11%-20%)
>
>After some hunting - here's more info:
>ftp://ftp.supras.com/pub/SONIC/MA70/Vfoutput.txt
>ftp://ftp.supras.com/pub/SONIC/MA70/TNSTCCS2.txt
>
>The basic idea - connect a voltmter to the Vf output.
>Cut the lid off the MAF and adjust away....
>
>DISCLAIMER - this can not be used on vehicles certified for highway use
>(aka under the justdiction of hte EPA et al)
FWIW, as long as you're adjusting the AFM, you should also adjust the
throttle position sensor.
Good luck,
Jeff
Plug Wires
>
> Had two Magnecores pull out the first time I pulled them to change the plugs.
> They wouldn't send me any but said they would repair them. Kept on tellin me
> that it's probably my fault for pulling it off wrong. So I ordered two and sent
> two back to decrease downtime. Never got the two returned that I sent in for
> repair.
>
Tim at DOA uses ACCEL 300+ 8.8mm wires in his turn key motors,I replaced
my Magnecor with these wires and i noticed a big improvement .Leonel
Quinteros TLCA #8612
Gas Mileage
Date: Thu, 6 Apr 2000 11:49:40 -0600
From: Beck Michael R Contr ESC Det 5 /NDSE <Michael.Beck@cisf.af.mil>
Subject: RE: 22re mileage
Nope, no miscalculation. Yes, I'm running stock gears. This is "Corrected"
mileage. This truck is completely stock with the exception of the mods I've
listed (This email doesn't show the 31's). With the price of gas, I've
started to use this as my daily driver and gave the RX7 to the wife. She
only works 2 blocks from the house <g> I wish my 85 got this good. I only
get about 10 out of it.
Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: ERICZ [SMTP:eze_money@email.msn.com]
Sent: Wednesday, April 05, 2000 6:21 PM
To: toy4x4@moab.off-road.com
Subject: Re: 22re mileage
I'm hoping this guy has miscalculated somehow.
Is he running "Stock Gears" in his diff's?
I'd hate to think that my 4Runner was out of tune that badly.
I get around 18mph in town and maybe 20mph on the highway.
I have a 1986 4Runner, 22RE, 200000+miles, new timing chain, K&N
drop-in,
flowmaster exhaust, 5.29's with lockrights f&r.
EricZ
>Not a pickup, but my 87 Runner gets 26 in town, 33 + on the road. I
have a
>2" CAT back, Amsoil airfilter, timing replaced at 130K (Now at
195K), and
5
>speed.
>
>Mike
Date: Thu, 6 Apr 2000 11:49:40 -0600
From: Beck Michael R Contr ESC Det 5 /NDSE <Michael.Beck@cisf.af.mil>
Subject: RE: 22re mileage
Nope, no miscalculation. Yes, I'm running stock gears. This is "Corrected"
mileage. This truck is completely stock with the exception of the mods I've
listed (This email doesn't show the 31's). With the price of gas, I've
started to use this as my daily driver and gave the RX7 to the wife. She
only works 2 blocks from the house <g> I wish my 85 got this good. I only
get about 10 out of it.
Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: ERICZ [SMTP:eze_money@email.msn.com]
Sent: Wednesday, April 05, 2000 6:21 PM
To: toy4x4@moab.off-road.com
Subject: Re: 22re mileage
I'm hoping this guy has miscalculated somehow.
Is he running "Stock Gears" in his diff's?
I'd hate to think that my 4Runner was out of tune that badly.
I get around 18mph in town and maybe 20mph on the highway.
I have a 1986 4Runner, 22RE, 200000+miles, new timing chain, K&N
drop-in,
flowmaster exhaust, 5.29's with lockrights f&r.
EricZ
>Not a pickup, but my 87 Runner gets 26 in town, 33 + on the road. I
have a
>2" CAT back, Amsoil airfilter, timing replaced at 130K (Now at
195K), and
5
>speed.
>
>Mike
Date: Thu, 6 Apr 2000 17:54:26 -0400
From: "Art Urban" <fjs4evr@msn.com>
Subject: Re: What's your 4x4 22RE Mileage ??????
OOpps!! should have read that better...The same truck I mentioned was avging
between 16-17 mpg hiway with 31x11.5's, COMPLETELY stock drivetrain... : (
My other 88 std cab has supposedly about 130K on a stock rebuilt and avgs
17.5-19 mpg, with the same 31x11.5s
Art
Date: Wed, 5 Apr 2000 21:23:18 EDT
From: PARANOID56@AOL.COM
Subject: Re: What's your 4x4 22RE Mileage ??????
I just got 10.3 MPG driving on the freeway the whole way, and it was flat. I
have 33MTs, stock gears, DT header, 2" exhaust, K&N. Boy, i need this get
better mileage, this sucks. Any Ideas what is wrong?
Shane
"Of all the things I lost, I miss my mind the most."
1984 Toyota 4x4 SR5 X-Cab
http://home.off-road.com/~paranoid56
Date: Wed, 05 Apr 2000 19:06:14 -0700
From: Thom Singer <ntsqd@shocking.com>
Subject: Re: What's your 4x4 22RE Mileage ??????
19.5-20 hwy; less city
22R, 4.88's, 33-9.5's, NWOR header (I didn't buy it), 2" exhaust, 2"
cat, 2.5" DynoMax, stock carb, dirty filter, 126K, tall shell.
- --
TS
Chico, CA
Ours go to eleven.
Date: Wed, 5 Apr 2000 22:54:04 -0400
From: "David Guffey" <dguff@preferred.com>
Subject: Re: What's your 4x4 22RE Mileage ??????
I get right around 20 with highway and city driving mixed about 50/50. '88
4Runner, 22RE, 4.56's, Detroit, 3" lift, 33x12.50s. Stock engine,
aspiration and exhaust.
David Guffey TLCA #5206
'88 4Runner
ASE Certified Parts Specialist
dguff@preferred.com
I usually get around 16-18 mpg with mixed highway/city driving, and i think
thats pretty good, the best i've ever seen on a long interstate trip was
about 22 mpg.
- -Justin
jkern@wvu.edu
1985 4Runner SR5, 3" lift, 33" mud tires
4.88's and EZ locker
http://www.cemr.wvu.edu/~jkern
Full Floater Shaft
Date: Fri, 07 Apr 2000 18:08:38 EST
From: "james stevenson" <j_s_stevenson@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Toyota Full Floater
>Now: what did you swap one into, what did it come off of, and how
>did it fit?
Generally I use LC75- rear full floater axles. Over the years the 9.5 has
changed. Parts are still interchangable but the main problem in the early
years was the 3rd member. Its got a nasty habit of blowing the seals. Also
its in a nuber of widths with diferent brakes. As Toy4wd's just about grow
on trees here in Oz I look for LC75- alxles. Thes have the rear disk alread
fitted and the dont have the seal problems that plagued the 9.5 till around
the LC60. Its not a big issue (seals) very minor in fact but still I go for
the disk brake uversion. Also the LC75unit is one of the widest axles giving
a making the conversion easier.
The conversion I have list a few times in detail so you will find that in
tha archives. I will list it again if you cant find that in the archives.
Esentually to convert the axle you need to center the 3rd member. To do this
you cust the tubes on both sides. The long side is added to the short side
and vs versa. This centers the 3rd member. As you now need custom axle
shafts these can be done 2 ways. replicate the OEM setup that bolts to the
hub or make double splined axles. Making OEM style units is very expensive
because you have to mill the shaft down from 6in solid stock. Going the
double spline route is easy. Make a normal axle but ath the hub end add a
spline that matches a free wheeling hub from a LC9.5 front axle. As it
happens the bolt pattern on the FF hub is identical to the front hub. So
attach the axle to the hub with a FW hub. Normally I use a cap from an LC80
constant 4wd. These are stronger then a FW hub and can pick them up nor
next to nothing. Also I never flat tow anyway so I had use disenguage an
axle it would ne because of a failure anyway, with either solution I would
be removing the axle shaft. Sorry I forgot the shaft itself need to be
machined th same as the OEM shaft to to hold the oil seal, but you use the
OEM unt as a pattern.
Front axle wise generally I swap to the LC75 9.5 in axle too. The simple
reason is 3rd members. That way like stock I have the same 3rd members on
each end. Functionally other than the 3rd member tha axles are the same.
When modifing both front and rear housing I also set the perches so that I
have no shims on the springs.
James Stevenson ICQ-19130256
______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
Fuel Injection Fitting
Date: Fri, 15 Oct 1999 14:25:10 -0400
From: Ed.Wong@astrapharmaceuticals.com
Subject: Fuel Inj Fittings?
The following Web Page lists a "SST type" part that I have been lookign for...
http://fly.hiwaay.net/~rcarlile/fpg/fpg1.htm
>The Toyota part number for the SST fitting is 000TG-01252
In this case the part is a 12mm to AN4 banjo bolt.
It allows the connection of a fuel pressure guage.
The web page then depicts both a 10mm version and a 8mm version
(no part number was given)
The 8mm version is of particular interest to the 22RE folks as thats the size
of the banjo bolts used on the Cold Start Injector - CSI - the easiest
fuel hose to get at to connect a pressure guage.
OTC makes a similar item #7427 on page 57 of the web catalog.
Unfortunately, the local OTC retail rep (a "real" parts store - happens
to be a CarQuest) called the OTC regional supplier and the
answer is that *all* the OTC part numbers I found that could be used
for this show up as "blanks" when the search was made. In other
words - the OTC parts are non-existant even though they are listed
as real in teh OTC catalog (we double checked using their OTC catalog)
Anyway - Scott Tate or other dealer types - can the above parts actually be
obtained?
Or do I have to resort to getting a Nissan part numebr (ala breather hose)!
Tim@DOA - how do people connect a EFI fuel pressure guage on the "racing"/street
engines?
Ewong
Date: Fri, 15 Oct 1999 22:42:27 EDT
From: DOARACING@AOL.COM
Subject: Re: Fuel Inj Fittings? What I do (DOA) for fuel taps. ATT: Ewong
For a gauge (f/p) source, I drill and tap the fuel rail end, which is a steel
part (no real threat of stripping) and use an AN fitting, and braided line
for the lead. Cold start injectors tend to dribble, allowing an "un true"
reading in some cases. The rail access method is very straight forward, and
allows gauge mounting in any location, although, I highly recommend keeping
live fuel related items on the intake side.
Tim @ DOA
Engine Rebuild in Truck
Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2000 10:00:36 -0500 (CDT)
From: Brian Wiencek <bwiencek@kcnet.com>
Subject: Re: The ultimate challenge
> I will now levee the challenge. I have a sickly 1985 4runner, the sickness
> of which was detailed in previous listings. After recieving several
> responses I have narrowed the problems down to hashed main bearings and a
> blown rear main seal. Here is the question/challenge. I have a four day
> break from School here at Purdue University. Is is possible,.... to drive
> the truck home friday night (four hours to central kentucky), pull the
> entire drivetrain, slap in new main bearings, maybe rings, clutch swap, and
> replace tranny bearings in four action packed days? (with time to come home
> tuesday) I know someone out there has done something sick like this, even
> better if it was done in an auto parts store parking lot. Let me know your
> opinions.
Dang - 4 days that's about 2x the time needed... I did my '85 4runner in
2.5 days - Started disassembling it friday night ~4 hr, worked on it
saturday for about 8 more hrs and was breaking it in after around
2 more hours sunday. New rings, bearings, valve springs, cam, refaced the
valves, lapped in the valves (the head work ate up ~3 hrs!). Honed the
cylinders and re-assembled.
My first question to you is WHY are you going to be doing the
clutch? There is a "trick" that you can rebuld the engine in the vehicle
and save about 2 hrs off the time by leaving the crank and block in the
vehicle and pulling the pan and sliding the bearings around the
journal of the crank one by one and re-installing the main caps. The
pistons can come out the top, hone the cylinders, clean everything REAL
good (I used a power washer w/soap) and then use brake-clean as a final
rinse, oil everything back up (to ease assembly and prevent flash rust if
it's going to sit). You could probably do an in-truck rebuild in 1.5
days.
The key to this whole adventure is to pre-purchase everything. Get a
compelete rebuld kit from your parts store and also if you think the crank
is scored from the bad bearings then order a reground crank - that way you
can put the reground one in and give them you're old one and not wait for
machine work.
- - Brian
Date: Wed, 27 Oct 1999 09:40:46 -0400
From: Ed.Wong@astrapharmaceuticals.com
Subject: Engine Rebuild
>> [edited]
As it stands right now the motor has 240,000 miles on it.
And the timing chain slaps the cover like nothing else.
[which rebuild kit]
<<
If the compression is OK - put in a new chain an keep going...
If ya drop the oil pan to do the chain (optional but better IMHO)
then Id slip in new thrust bearings - - you can do that w/o
taking the crank off. Its a pretty cheap fix and yer already
there anyway.
EWong -
305K and still going....
Engine Rebuild Source:
Not all rebuild engines are equal. The quality of a rebuild engine is highly dependent on time and effort that has been put into the engine. In my opinion, shops whose owner is active enthusiasts are the best shops. Especially shop owners who come up with good innovations. If the owner come up with good innovations, that means he is thinking about what he is doing and is constantly thinking of ways to do things better. The result shows. Examples of good shops are DOA http://www.doaracingengines.com/ , they have come up with a metal backed timing chain guide that solved the single most unreliable feature of the Toyota 4cyl engine. Marlin's shop http://www.marlincrawler.com/ is also a good shop. He is the one who started the dual transfer case for Toyotas and made those bulletproof Marfield joints. AllPro in Hamet, http://www.off-road.com/~allpro/, is also a good shop. They too have made numerous innovative new products. These are the shops that I would trust my hard earned money to. On the other hand, I would not trust LC Engineering http://www.lcengineering.com/index.html. I have heard bad things about them. Although they sell lots of products, nothing they sell is really innovative. You also don't see pictures of their owners out with their trucks 4wheeling. While this may or may not mean they are a poor shop, but for close to $3000 for a rebuild engine, if I know nothing about a shop's reputation, I would look at all the subtle hints and place my bet on shops that have the best chance of giving me a good product. Rumors have confirmed what I feared. LC Engineering have had unsatisfied customers.
Ben Lee
Date: Sat, 4 Dec 1999 15:04:57 -0700
From: "Shaun" <shauntrin@prodigy.net>
Subject: Fw: Impressive Engine Remanufacturers
Just wanted to let all listers know that I had an excellent
conversation with Michael Blackwelder at East Coast Performance today.
He spent a significant amount of time describing the engines that are
remanufactured there. Sounds like a much better way to get a
remanufactured engine than through one of the enormous engine rebuild
clearinghouses like ATK. Their technicians are all Toyota factory
certified and one of them also works at a Toyota dealership. All that
they do is Toyota engines and that speaks volumes to me. Some of the
many features are a decked block ( along with properly machined
pistons so that the compression ratio is the same as stock ), factory
oil pump, high quality rod and thrust bearings, piston rings, etc.
Complete 22 series engines are available, but for the V6 only the
short block is available. Some balancing/blueprinting is available
for the 4bangers but at this point those services are not available
for the 6. In the future, these services may be available for the V6
if there is a demand for them. Anyway, I was impressed that these
folks talked with me at length even though I told them that I was no
where near needing to get another engine, I was also impressed by
their product knowledge, and dedication to the Toyota product in
specific. If you're in need of another engine, I'd definitely give em
a ring!
1-800-470-6511 Michael L Blackwelder
SAE paper on Slick50
11. H. Shaub, et al., "Engine Durability, Emissions and Fuel Economy Benefits of Special
Boundary Lubricant Chemistry," SAE Paper 941983, October 1994.
P.S. The "snake oil" article floating around the internet by Fred Rau is
several years old, and he has long since changed his mind on this topic. He's
writing up a new article for ROAD RIDER magazine.
Prime Oil Pump
Date: Wed, 18 Oct 2000 19:22:08 -0700
From: "Amy L. Burris" <gaburris@digitaldune.net>
Subject: Re: Toyota 4x4 digest: V2 #1133
Don't use grease to pack the oil pump, Vaseline will work fine and will dissolve in the hot
oil. Grease can ball up and clog the oil pump pickup screen and cause
oil starvation damage. This comes from a local machinist with 50 years experience.
Gary Burris 85 shorted, 22R,weber 32/36,Downey header, comp cam, mallory unilite, msd 6a, 3"
downey per-run lift,31.1050 desert dogs. 4.3 tbi/t-700 on the way.
Oil Consumption
Date: Fri, 1 Oct 1999 12:12:52 EDT
From: DOARACING@AOL.COM
Subject: Re: New 22RE oil consumption ATT: Gerry P.
Hi Gerry. I've seen some strange things occur with pcv systems. One such
happening was where the gasket between the valve cover and baffle had
deteriorated to the point of allowing excess oil to be passed through the pcv
valve, and the forward breather port. The only way to access - change this
gasket, which few even are aware exists, is to pop the casting "rivets" that
attach the baffle to the cover, this can be done by drilling them also.Very
common in the aftermarket world. I just went through this woe with one of my
85's. Hope you figure it out soon.
Tim @ DOA
Oil Pressure Gauge
Date: Sat, 1 Jan 2000 21:10:37 +0100
From: "Marco Schotman" <toyotaro@zeelandnet.nl>
Subject: Re: normal SR5 oil pressure gauge behavior
I see regular postings about the misread on the oil pressure gauges after
swapping in the SR5 dash gauge clusters, I had the same problem when I did
mine.
The local toy dealer says Im wrong, but I still believe there is somewhere a
resistor in the wiring harness for the SR5 models, or the dealer sold me the
wrong sender. (he says theres only one...)
Anyway, the oil gauge is nothing more then a volt meter, the sender is a
variable resistor.
So I hooked up an extra variable resistor (pot) in the sender wire and start
adjusting it until the gauge reads zero with the ignitionkey ON but the
engine OFF. Then I started the engine to check the gauge, just perfect! It
reads now zero with the engine off, midrange when idling and highrange with
a little trothle.
To make this a definitive solution (the little pot was realy getting hot) I
measured the value, was something like 150 Ohm (if I remember right) I
couldnt find heavy duty resistors with this value at the shop so I took 2 *
300 Ohm and solderd them paralel at the back of the gauge cluster unit.
Works fine for more then 25000 km now.
Marco Schotman, the Netherlands.
-Toyotaro- Fahrvergn?gen?
'89 4x4 crewcab pickup, 2.4 turbo diesel
http://people.zeelandnet.nl/schotman
Where Oil Gauge
Water temp - it's by the thermostat housing (upper radiator hose) The oil
pressure sender is below the intake, on the passenger side of the engine
about 1/2 way front-to-back on the block... About 2" above the oil pan.
If you're looking to add an aftermarket guage there is an oil port on the
drivers side that can be used also.
- - Brian
Subject: Re: oil pressure guage and water temp guage??
Unless you found gauges with metric fittings you will need to purchase a 10M X
1.5M to 1/8NPT fitting. If you bought a mechanical gauge it will most likely
have 1/8NPT fittings. I still have my mechanical water temp gauge sitting on the
shelf as I could not find an opening big enough for the sender. The stock sender
location will not work, it is too small. I thought about the coolant drain plug
on the block but awhile back someone told me the reading would always be hot and
erratic. Any listers have any luck with this? Also don't bother hooking back up
the oil press. idiot light. I did and was shocked when it turned off at under
10psi.
PS: Thank You to everyone who replied to my broken mirror question, I am going
to hit the local parts stores today and look for a replacement. If I am unlucky
I will be giving you a call Andy.
> I am having some touble locating where i am supposed to plug these in on
> my 85 22re. Since i lost my shop manual i have no way of tracking the
> spot where they go into the engine is at and could use some help if
> anyone knows?
John Smith 79 FJ40, 87 Std Cab
Subject: oil pressure guage and water temp guage??
I have gone through the 22RE "temp" guage confusion, so
Id thought I'd rewrite/repost my finding...
It turns out there are TWO temp sensors on the 22RE.
One is for the EFI computer
One is for the temp guage.
It seems that the one for the EFI computer uses two wires,
and is *very* expeinsive - like $80 last time I checked.
The guage for the instrument cluster is mucho cheaper
and uses only one wire.
The EFI temp guage is located on the "forward" part of the
intake manifold - near the #1 cycl and underneath
in the area where the water outlet connects to the
radiator (aka the top hose).
There are two similar looking fittings here - one is
for the CSI (cold start injector) and one is for the
EFI temp sensor. I dont recall which one is which.
Thats why I have a shop manual :)
The instrument cluster temp sensor is located in
the intake manifold as well - in between the #2
and #3 intake runners. Its "down" below the top
of the valve cover (no duh) and has one wire going
to it. Its located "up/down" and can easily be
removed with a deep socket. Because the hole is so
small - you can pull the sensor and replace it with
almost NO loss of coolant - a 1 bannana job and a 15min
parking lot fix (if the engine is cold!).
The sensor is also cheaper - like under $10 if I
recall correctly.
As far as the oil pressure - its near where the oil
filter is - a bit closer to the firewall
than the filter but higher than the starter and
below the fuel filter. I thought it was a 10mmx1.25 pitch
thread and not 10mmx1.5, but hey - I could be wrong.
I ran the 10mm adapter to a 1/8 NPT "T" fitting and used
one NPT male fiting for a pressure guage (Autometer)
and used the 1/8NPT female (and alot of teflon pipe tape)
for the OEM oil pressure sender light. The "T" was
brass so it was kinda soft.
But - as smithjn@us.ibm.com points out - the OEM
idiot light goes "off" a a very low pressure.
My read is that the OEM lihgt goes on at much lower
than 10 - closer to 3lbs!!!!!! This means that
the oil pressure light is a "pull over and
buy a new engine" light.
Im now running an Autometer warning light
connected to a 20lb switch...(might be 25lbs - I ferget which)
EWong
SR5 Oil Pressure
Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2000 15:48:03 -0700
From: "Kevin R. Frederick" <fredekr@sweng.stortek.com>
Subject: Re: normal SR5 oil pressure gauge behavior
Marco Schotman wrote:
> So I hooked up an extra variable resistor (pot) in the sender wire
...
> To make this a definitive solution (the little pot was realy getting hot) I
> measured the value, was something like 150 Ohm (if I remember right) I
> couldnt find heavy duty resistors with this value at the shop so I took 2 *
> 300 Ohm and solderd them paralel at the back of the gauge cluster unit.
> Works fine for more then 25000 km now. For anyone still following this thread, I just finalized my fix by
adding a resistor to my SR5 cluster based on Marco's suggestion. I misread Marco's advice at first and just put an extra resistor in the wire off the sending unit -- this makes the gauge read lower, and I needed higher. The fix that worked is as follows: I used 300 Ohms total resistance (two 150 Ohm resistors in series). I found a convenient place on the back of my cluster to wire this: I noticed there's an unused indicator lamp socket in the bottom-most socket on the oil pressure gauge side of my cluster. This socket is also connected to the oil pressure gauge (if you put an extra bulb in this socket it'll disable the oil pressure gauge; putting a resistor directly in this socket makes the gauge read lower). So, I used an extra lamp socket, took out one contact, and wired my resistors between the side of the lamp socket which connects to the oil pressure gauge and a nearby ground screw on the temp gauge. Easy to fiddle with and kept my bumbly soldering skills from mucking up the cluster! Mine now reads at under 3/4 for around 4000 RPM, right at halfway at about 2000 RPM, just above 1/4 mark for hot idle, and sits at just under zero with engine off and ignition on.
cheers,
Kevin
AC Idler Bearing
Date: Sun, 2 Jan 2000 17:05:07 -0500
From: Agustinus Gunawan <aharjadi@maysvilleky.net>
Subject: RE: ac idler pully bearing
6204ZZ with steel shield or 6204R with rubber seal
- -----Original Message-----
From: Paul Czapiga [SMTP:Pooltech4u@webtv.net]
Sent: Sunday, January 02, 2000 4:27 PM
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Subject: ac idler pully bearing
Does anyone know the bearing part number for the a/c idler pully? Toyota
wants a fortune for theirs, and I've heard it can be had for 7-8
dollars.
Please email me off the list.
Thanking you in advance
Paul
http://community.webtv.net/Pooltech4u/POOLTEHSERVICES
Cheap Bearings
Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2000 08:48:54 -0500 (CDT)
From: Brian Wiencek <bwiencek@kcnet.com>
Subject: Re: Front Wheel Bearings
> My son and I are going to replace the front wheel bearings in his
> 83 4x4 pickup. CarParts.com have the following brands. My first
> question is, which brand makes the best wheel bearings without
> regard to cost?
> BECK ARNLEY, BCA/BOWER, CHICAGO RAWHIDE, AC DELCO
Hmmmmm... I bet AC delco and Beck Arnley are repackaged someone elses
units. I know I have used BCA (but just like every other mfgr they have
2-3 different "quality levels" of the same bearing - the ones they sell to
the ultra discounters (pep-boys, AutoZone, Advance auto, etc), so it
depends on which they're selling. The finish on the cheapies isn't
quite as nice and the bearing retainer wasn't as 'strong' (but it
should only be there to hold the bearings in until they get installd. I've
used the cheapies and the 'better' quality and have not gone through
either one, but maintenance is key (plus I don't run really huge tires
33's and 35's) I have used a chicago bearing (don't know if it was
'rawhide' brand or not and the finsih seemed good. As for the others -
who knows.
- - Brian
Timing Chains
Date: Sun, 9 Jan 2000 00:25:43 EST
From: Dan4runr85@AOL.COM
Subject: Timing Chains
Thought that I would share the trouble I have had with aftermarket parts to list to help others avoid this stuff. Seems that the timing kits that the Carquest stores sell, the keyway, and or the teeth, are degreed wrong on the cam sprocket and the crank sprocket. I have found this out after a bit of work to fix my trucks badly rebuilt motor. The only way to go is Toyota parts and or other proven quality aftermarket suppliers. Hard lesson in the labor dept. (mine) to find out who does the quality and who doesn't :o(
I'll put the Toyota parts in this week so I can go wheeling to Last Chance Canyon on Saturday and Sunday :o)
I really hope this helps somebody else avoid this type of problem.
Danny
Date: Sun, 9 Jan 2000 00:59:57 -0500
From: "fjs4evr" <fjs4evr@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: Timing Chains
On that note, someone posted before if you do go the aftermarket route, to
use stuff only made in Japan, not China....Ask at the counter before you
buy!
Art
Date: Tue, 28 Mar 2000 12:12:33 EST
From: DOARACING@AOL.COM
Subject: Re: Timing Chain
Well, to go into more detail, the pin barrels on a timing chain settle. The
chainwheels, or sprockets, wear in as well. Both combined are titled as chain
stretch, although I don't really feel it's the links that physically stretch,
it's called chain stretch all the same. My recommendation is this. If you
pull the valve cover, so to see the upper chainwheel, and set the lower
pulley to 5*, you can then move the lower pulley either to the left or right,
and make note of how many degrees of pulley movement have occurred before cam
movement begins. Do this in both directions, and note the total degrees. 10*,
and the timing assembly no longer is adequate for steady accell-decell timing
amounts. It will allow too much fluctuation for steady timing, and that is a
pure power robber.
Tim @ DOA
Date: Tue, 28 Mar 2000 10:59:28 -0500
From: "Art Urban" <fjs4evr@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: Timing Chain
He means if you remove the valve cover, turn the crank by hand and line up
your timing mark at 0 degrees. Then you turn the crank until the cam just
starts to move, then look at where the timing mark is. If you have more than
10 degrees of slack, replace the chain. Mine had about 12 on it when I did
mine. I cant remember whether the manual states 12 or 15 degrees as the max.
Art
Chain Tensioner
Date: Mon, 10 Jan 2000 10:55:15 -0600
From: Troy Yoder <tnbyoder@flash.net>
Subject: Re: head gasket DNF update
Thom,
I was told that you should be able to get a pry-bar down to the
tensioner, and relieve the tension that way. I wasn't able to make it
work though. I ended up pulling the cover.
I'm not sure I would pry the upper sprocket,that seems like it would
damage the chain or worse.
Troy
> It would appear that the tensioner has come out far enough that the
> timing chain won't let the sprocket back up onto the cam. One semi-hack
> mech. told me he just uses a pry bar to lever it up onto the cam. Anyone
> got a better method ?
------------------------------
Chain Tensioner
Date: Mon, 10 Jan 2000 12:33:42 EST
From: DOARACING@AOL.COM
Subject: Re: Getting chain tensioner retracted...
Simply counter rotate the motor to recess the tensioner.
Tim @ DOA
Date: Mon, 10 Jan 2000 22:40:55 -0500
From: Patrick Stanley <pstanley@intelos.net>
Subject: Timing chain
I just pull up on the cam gear and use a breaker bar and socket on the crank. I then move the crank back and forth a little and you can feel it give and the cam gear will slip right on. I would avoid putting a pry bar or anything else for that matter down in there. You may wind up like I did and the bar slip and then there goes the tensioner down to the bottom of the timing cover and the tensioner get ruined in the process.
Patrick(Lil Toy) in VA
Date: Mon, 10 Jan 2000 21:10:03 -0800
From: Thom Singer <cbovee@dock.net>
Subject: Re: Getting chain tensioner retracted...
I gently lifted up on the cam sprocket with a pry bar and rotated the
crank until the sprocket groove matched the cam's drive pin (less than
1/16 rotation) and the sprocket popped on like it was supposed to be there.
DOARACING@AOL.COM wrote:
>
> Simply counter rotate the motor to recess the tensioner.
>
> Tim @ DOA
Ed.Wong@astrapharmaceuticals.com wrote:
>
> Doing thing the hard way - remove the timing chain cover and
> use yer finger?
SnatchRope@AOL.COM wrote:
>
> I alway's use a long screwdriver ,and a flashlight , works for me hope it
> works for you
- --
TS
Off-list mail to: ntsqd@mail.csuchico.edu
My opinion is worth what you're paying for it.
Difference Between 22R and 22RE
Date: Wed, 19 Apr 2000 20:09:55 -0000
From: "Richard Morris" <morris@cyberport.com>
Subject: Difference Between R22 and RE22
From PartYota,
Toyota R series four cylinder engine information:
20R, 2190cc displacement, 8.4:1 compression, 96HP, 87 ft/lb torque
22R, Carb, 2367cc displacement, 9.0:1 compression, 100HP, 100 ft/lb of
torque
22RE, EFI, Carb, 2367cc displacement, (9.5:1 but with the thick head gasket
9.23:1) 116HP, 140 ft/lb of torque
REC22 Turbo Charged, EFI, 2367cc displacement, 7.5:1 compression (but with
the thick head gasket is 7.30:1~), 135HP or 145?, 180 ft/lb of torque.
All Toyota Engines from 1982 to 1995 R22, RE22, and REC22 all had the same
bore, stroke and used the same crankshaft and rods. Bore: 92mm, Stroke:
89mm
From 1982 to 1984 through August Toyota RE22 engines, which used a dome top
piston with open cambered head.
From August 1984 through 1995 Toyota RE22 engines, which used flat top
piston which were stock. because the combustion camber on the heads were
closed, and dome top piston won't work on this application.
From 1985 to 1988 Toyota REC22 engine were turbo charged with there CT20
charger.
Stock piston number (PAT080T), also the piston were dished, but really they
had 1/4" by 2.930 circle cut out of the top and with two valve notches also
cut out. So, one can't really say they were dished.
For 20R's and 22R's engine Toyota used the same camshaft; intake duration
272 degrees, exhaust duration 248 degrees, intake lift 10.1 mm, and exhaust
lift 9.7mm, this was for none Electronic Fuel Injected engines. Stock cams
For 20R's engines that were EFI used a cam with information: intake
duration 248 degrees, exhaust duration 280 degrees, intake lift 10.0 mm, and
exhaust lift 9.7 mm. Stock cams
Normally for the R20 and R22 Toyota blocks there deck are 11.280 inches, and
the deck height for the RE22 and REC22 are 11.090". This measurement is
from the top of the block to the bottom of the oil pan rail.
Timing Chain
Date: Tue, 19 Oct 1999 11:08:24 -0400
From: "Kevin A. Michael" <blkvoodoo@sprynet.com>
Subject: Autozone tensioner
<snip>
Uhhh... wait a second... you must like swapping out that chain. Why put
ANOTHER cheap Autozone tensioner back in?
Remember the old saying: "Fool me once, shame on you. Fool me twice, shame
on me."
<snip >
I went through a situation earlier this summer with timing chains and the
like.
A friend bought a kit form a source well known to the list because it
contained the coveted "unbreakable" pieces we all want for our 22R engines.
The kit contained the SAME timing components ( chain, tensioner, gears )
that Auto Zone sells.
I found this a little puzzling so I went shopping around and found out a few
things;
I went to Car Quest, NAPA, Advanced Auto, Parts America ( before Advanced
bought them ), and Pep Boys.
Looked at all the timing sets for the 22R-22RE engines. Guess what... THEY
ARE ALL THE SAME !! Just a different box.
The gears all had the same casting numbers, the chains had the same
stampings, and in most cases the part number was the same. They all had the
same cheesy plastic guides that we all hate ( except the one ) .
The only one that was different was from an Import Auto parts house and
I'll not even go into the quality comparison. ( poor quality )
The only thing different about each kit was the price and WHAT a price
range there was ! ( $50- $130 a set )
What it comes down to is this, Go with what you know worked the best for
the longest, changing only the parts you know will break ( The Toyota chain,
gears, and tensioner worked well for most everyone, it's the guides that
suck )
I have replaced my timing set twice now, first time at 192k, pulled out the
factory stuff cuz the guides broke, the second time because the guides
again(32k on the set, The steel guides were not known to me at the time ).
I now have the steel guides ( nice pieces ) and am confident I will not
have to pull the engine apart again for quite some time.
" Let the buyer beware "
Kevin Michael
'85 Toyota 4Runner
Optima red top, 8k Ramsey, Hi-lift, K&N, RS 9000's, Downey 3"
Bridgestone Dueler MT's 32x11.5, Lockright (rear)
http://blkvoodoo.home.sprynet.com
http://cnc.4x4.org
Which head is best
Date: Thu, 20 Apr 2000 22:59:20 -0000
From: "Richard Morris" <morris@cyberport.com>
Subject: Conversion of a Toyota Engine
From: PartYorta
To: Michael Fox <michael.fox@YALE.EDU
Michael it will depend on what is the production date of vehicle the head
came off of. If the head is from a Toyota R22 engine from 1981 to August of
1984. Then this is how to identify these heads. 1981 to Aug 1984 they will
have square intake ports, and round exhaust ports. Combustion camber cc are
82/83 mm.
Now for the R22 and RE22 heads from August 1984 to 1995 the head will have
square intake port and pear shape exhaust port.
Also the combustion camber cc are 52/54 mm.
Also on the 1981 to March 1983 the R22 Toyota heads had some power
influencing defects built into the head, and this was swirl-type combustion
chamber. But they have poor intake ports which couldn't provide enough flow
for more than 5500 RPM. So, keep away from this head that were manufactured
for the years mentioned.
Therefore, Machael head that you need is the is the EFI head from the years
of February 1982 to 1984 from a none 4X4 R22 EFI engine. the combustion
camber has a swirl type and will fit with those dome top piston on the 1985
Toyota block.
You can't use Toyota heads from 1985 to 1995 R22, RE22, and REC22, because
the combustion camber is closed and those dome top piston will not work in
this application.
The best choice for head would be the R20 from 1975 to July 1978 none 4X4
R20 engine. It has a hemispherical combustion camber and will handle stock
flow adequately up to 6500 RPM+. The only thing that is wrong with this
head is the EFI intake manifold will not match the head intake ports, which
are round, and the EFI intake manifold are square.
Valve Clearance
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 1997 09:56:44 -0500
From: "Edward C. Fisher"
Subject: Toy4x4 Digest V1 #127
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
At 12:30 AM 4/12/97, you wrote:
>Run the engine until it reaches normal operating temperature on the
>gauge--with the valve cover on! If you take it loose first, you will
>have an oily mess. The motor will stay hot enough to adjust all of the
>valves. Be careful of hot exhaust components.
>- --
FYI to all:
You can set the valve clearances to .007 and .011 cold, instead of heating
the car up and setting to .008 and .012. I have done this, and then warmed
the car to operating temp and re-checked. The clearances are the same. I
learned this trick from a 20+ year Toyota service tech.
Ed F.
- ------------------------------------------------------
Edward C. Fisher E-Mail: edwd@ti.com
Process Engineering Team Phone: (214) 995-6305
DMD Components Group Pager: (214) 410-4669
Texas Instruments, Inc. MSGID: EDWD
- ------------------------------------------------------
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 07:30:17 -0500
From: "Edward C. Fisher"
Subject: tranny fluid change (long)
I also posted that valves can be set at .007 and .011 cold. Again, this is
what is being done by at least one superior Toyota expert at at least one
finely run shop. I have set mine cold, brought the vehicle up to operating
temp, and rechecked the clearance with a good go-no-go guage, and the
clearances were correct. I will never burn my hands again.
The bottom line is, to each his own. I didn't get really detailed in my
first explanation and that is my fault. You folks don't know me all that
well, and I only post when I have something to say that may be of help or
relevance.
Ed Fisher
Install Valve Stem
Date: Wed, 8 Sep 1999 12:40:07 -0500 (CDT)
From: Brian Wiencek <bwiencek@kcnet.com>
Subject: RE: O2 sensor and valve seals
> > 2 I would like to change the valve seals on the same motor without taking
> > off the head. I have the valve tool made for this. The rocker
> > arms are in
> > the way and are held in by the head bolts. If I take the bolts off will I
> > desturb the head gasket? Can I retork them when done or do I need new
> > bolts? Any in put would be welcome.
>
> Can this be done? I'm curious.
Ok, here's one way of doing it
1) remove valve cover
2) remove rocker shaft / head bolts.
3) disassemble rocker arm shafts
4) install bare rocker shaft "stands" onto the head
5) torque back down bolts
6) use compressed air or a length of rope to hold valve up (take 1/4"
rope, tie big knot in one end, feed about 2 feet down the hole, rotate
engine until rope is pressed against valves)
7) remove valve spring using valve spring compressor tool (cheap one is
~$10-20 at most parts stores in the lisle brand?)
8) install new stem seals and re-assemble in reverse.
Make sure you get the rocker arms back in their proper location and you'll
be just fine.
- - Brian
Carbon Removal
Date: Fri, 28 Apr 2000 09:35:34 -0700
From: Roger Brown <rogerb@pisco.engr.sgi.com>
Subject: Re: Motor re-assembly tips
> I'm pretty much done tearing my 22R apart, time to turn the corner and
> start putting it back together. Picked up the head from the machine shop
> today, it's VERY flat now! If it was any flatter, it would be Ohio. (uh
> oh...)
>
> Pulled the valves out to replace the seals. What's the best way to get
> all that carbon gunk off the intake valves? Scraping is going very
> slowly. Tried carb cleaner, didn't seem to touch it.
WD40 is the answer, at least in my book. When my engine was apart, I sprayed
it down one Sunday with the stuff, to keep the rust away (winter rains) and a
few days later looked at the combustion chamers and piston tops to see the
carbon deposts all wrinkled up and ready to brush away, just like paint and
stripper. I takes at least overnight to work, and may take a 2nd application.
> What about pre-lubing the oil pump? My buddy Bud R (as well as others)
> has mentioned Vasoline to help it prime. I mentioned this in the auto
> parts store this afternoon, the guy looked at me like I was nuts.
I didn't do anything to mine, guess it wouldn't hurt, though.
- --
Roger Brown http://reality.sgi.com/rogerb/4x4/CheapTricks/EngineMods/
Head Cost
Date: Thu, 20 Apr 2000 16:03:27 -0400
From: Ed.Wong@astrapharmaceuticals.com
Subject: That slippery slope...
So the head gasket is blown - and Im looking to see just
how much work I want to sink into the head...
$70 to shave head
$36 R&R Seals
~$180 to clean and do "valves" usng existing guides
more to redo guides and seats etc
LC "OEM" head - $600 - which is the dealer list
Dealer "discount" on OEM head ~$480
This is a factory new head - no "special" work done
Tim@DOA is out of the office right now.
Hot-Rod head makes no sense as the bottom end
need work anyway.. Thats part of the hot-rod the engine
work anyway.
So the cheap route is still to R&R the head
and slap a new gasket in there....
I suppose I'll check the flatness FIRST and then
go from there?
Also - I guess I'll scotch brite the carbon off the pistons etc.
Ewong
Head Warp Limit
As per Thom's suggestion - 0.005" or less - gasket
and go. More - then I gots to think about what to
do next...
Ewong
Head Gasket Replacement
Date: Wed, 18 Oct 2000 19:17:03 -0500
From: Mark Dierker <medb23@mizzou.edu>
Subject: Re: Head gasket replacement on 22RE
Hrmm,
I 'm not an expert, and have only done one. But a dealer mechanic told me
to be sure and tighten the bolt that extends onto the timing chain cover
last. He said that every once-and-awhile someone tightens it first, and in
the process of torque-ing the head the timing chain cover breaks. Other
thing is to make sure the pits in the top of the block and head are
removed, apparently they can affect the sealing in this guy. I guess
dressing the deck of the block wont be an option for you, but might atleast
look at how severe it is. Other than those two I couldnt find any other
things to watch for.
- -Mark Dierker
Columbia, Missouri.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 18 Oct 2000 17:20:22 -0700
From: Thom Singer <ntsqd@shocking.com>
Subject: Re: Head gasket replacement on 22RE
There is the bolt under the gear that drives the distributor that everyone who's done the job
warns everyone thinking of doing the job about.
Then there are the two bolts in the back of the head that almost no one mentions. They hold
the EGR tube and the coolant tube in place. Can't see either one on
my carb'd '84, but ooh do I know that they are there..... They're a 12 mm head and you can
remove them w/o being able to see them, it's just time consuming.
Date: Wed, 29 Mar 2000 14:10:35 -0500
From: "Thomas R. Bank" <trbankii@microserve.net>
Subject: Head Gasket Job (Reassembly)`
Continuing the story here, this is how things went back together on my '85 22R
head gasket rebuild.
Since the radiator was out of the truck anyway, I took it in to the local shop
to have it cleaned out. They found a crack forming and fixed that up as well,
so it is good that I took it in when I did. Similarly, since the cylinder head
was out of the truck, I took it in to a machine shop and had the head milled as
well as the valves and seats ground and new seals put in.
Roger Brown shared the suggestion to use ARP's head studs in place of the head
bolts. The part number is 203-4201 and they are available from Summit for a bit
over $100. If I were keeping the engine, I would have definitely gone with
them. As it was, I had other things to spend $100 on so I went with the
original bolts.
Things went back together smoothly. I left the radiator out until the very end,
just to give me more room to work. The only thing that slowed me down was
getting the timing chain and sprocket back on the cam. Again, the service
manual was little help. Similar to disassembly, they have you putting the fuel
pump in place before putting the sprocket and such on. The fuel pump can be the
very last thing that you put back on if you want; just make sure you put it on
after the sprocket and drive gears are in place. The manual also recommends
turning the camshaft back and forth while pulling up on the chain and sprocket
to get things in place. Right! Someone explain to me what that is supposed to
do for you. What needs to be done is to push the chain tensioner in so that you
have some slack. While searching around and trying different tools to reach
down inside the chain cover, I finally found the perfect tool. It is even
supplied by Toyota with each truck! The extension for the spare tire hoist! I
snaked it down inside the cover, pushed the tensioner in, and slipped the
sprocket onto the cam. Beautiful! It also helps to leave the oil pan off until
this point as you can lay a drop light underneath the truck so that you can see
what you are doing as you reach down into the timing chain cover to push on the
tensioner.
Here is the cost breakdown:
Head gasket kit (NAPA) - $87
Timing chain gasket kit (NAPA) - $22
Radiator repair and cleaning - $70
Cylinder head machine work - $95
DOA guides (w/ shipping) - $75
Oil, filters, anti-freeze, misc. - $35
Total spent on project - $384
"Ballpark figure" from local Toyota dealer - $1400
The first dealer said that it was not worth doing that much work on such an old
truck. The second one was more than willing to do the work. Of course, he
would not give a firm quote until they saw the truck (I called after I was
finished with all of the work). I explained that I had the head gasket leak and
wanted the timing chain guides replaced and the cylinder head work done while
they were in there. So their price does not include the radiator work. They
wanted to let me know that they could not give me a firm estimate until they had
a chance to open it up and pretty much told me that it could end up costing even
more.
So that is the story. After the successful completion of this project I am
never again going to have a mechanic work on my truck. I feel pretty confident
about my skills at this point. If anyone wants to ask more questions, please
feel free to contact me. I only wish that I had a digital camera to document
the process for someone to put up on a website.
- --
Argue for your limitations, and sure enough, they're yours.
- --
TLCA #8536 (Digest mode)
- --
Gasket Sealer
To: Alfa Digest <alfa-digest@digest.net>
Subject: Re:Gasket sealant, need everyone opinion.
From: Hirsch <Catenary@compuserve.com>
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 22:50:30 -0400
Content-Disposition: inline
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
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Reply-To: Hirsch <Catenary@compuserve.com>
Sender: owner-alfa@digest.net
Dear Alfisti,
The use of RTV silicone as gasket material was discussed on this
digest before. Back in July '96 (AD 3019) the case for using
RTV sealants was made by Jim Steck, a well-regarded engine
builder from Ohio, USA. I've included his original post below.
Rich
P.S. It's good to see that Joel Hailey is once again posting
to the AD.
~~~~~
From: Jim Steck <72614.557@CompuServe.COM>
Date: 24 Jul 96 15:50:46 EDT
Subject: RTV gasket sealer
> my objection to RTV is that in all cases I've found its use
> excessie and because people tend to use too damn much, I say
> forget the damn stuff. Even used sparingly, it oozes out and
> can break off to plug oil passages.
I agree that excessive amounts can cause _big_ problems ... but
don't forget about the oil nozzles I use in my turbo engines ...
the orifices are only 0.8 mm diameter. If they get plugged, the
pistons overheat. I wouldn't use RTV if it caused problems. Any
sealer used in excess can cause the same symptoms. Yet, assembling
an engine without any sealer is a guarantee of big leaks.
Here are a couple techniques I use to make sure there are no
bits floating around inside my engines.
1. Apply the RTV sparingly. Use the applicator nozzle supplied
with the tube. Cut it on a 45 degree angle at the 6 mm diameter
step. On the 'point' of the nozzle, remove a 1.5 - 2.0 mm triangular
notch. Hold the nozzle flat against the surface to be sealed as
the tube is squeezed ... this way only a narrow ribbon of sealer
is applied. One of the 'gun' type tools designed to squeeze the
tube makes this operation easier.
2. Let the sealer sit for 5-10 minutes before assembling. RTV
cures after it absorbs moisture from the air. If you
immediately assemble the parts, the center of the joint
may never completely cure.
3. Assemble the parts and pull the bolts/nuts up with about
1/2 the normal torque. Let sit overnight and then finish
tightening. This put a compressive force on the cured gasket.
4. Carefully inspect the inside of the joint for any traces
of oozing sealer. In the unlikely event you find any, scrape
and remove it. The timing cover surfaces are fairly narrow,
and some 'oozing' may be found. The oil pan rail is wide
enough that 'oozing' is unlikely (and inspection is impossible).
Obviously, it takes a couple days to assemble an engine.
I use RTV in only a couple places ... in all cases without
paper gaskets:
timing cover
oil pan
cigarette seals (squirt some into the hole before installing the seal)
rear cover - oil drain on back of block
cylinder liners to the block (without the factory o-rings)
water pump
A couple other thoughts ...
The surfaces must be absolutely oil free ... use brake cleaner.
If your car has an oxygen sensor ... use only 'sensor safe' RTV.
Do not use RTV to seal paper gaskets.
If you use RTV at the base of the liners, put all the liners in first
(without crank or pistons/rods) and hold them in place overnight with
the head (use your old head gasket) torqued to 30-35 lb-ft.
Form-in-place gaskets (RTV etc.) allow leak free metal-to-metal
joints in the engine. This produces a stronger structure, and
precludes creep in the joints ... which shows up later as a leak.
MOST car manufacturers use RTV somewhere in there engines ...
any fluids collected in during emissions testing are added to the
tailpipe emissions when certifying a new car ... so the OEM's
are _very_ picky about leaks.
Jim Steck
AutoComponenti
~~~~~
To: alfa@digest.net
Subject: Re:Gasket sealant, need everyone opinion.
From: Bruce Murray <bmurray@bbn.com>
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 1998 17:48:35 -0400
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
Reply-To: Bruce Murray <bmurray@bbn.com>
Sender: owner-alfa@digest.net
>
>I was told to used Permatex Ultra Gray on 164 thermostat housing
>and CAM cover as gasket sealant. It is a very good stuff,
>stay pliable and never hardened. Funny it is a little bit
>hard to find Ultra Gray while there are Ultra Blue, Ultra Black...
>on every auto store. I finally found one.
>
>As for 164 intake duct gasket glue, Ultra gray is not sticky enough.
>I use Permatex high tack gasket sealant. It's hard to apply but
>easy to clean with alcohol.
>
Well since Karl asks for everyone's opinion here's mine:-
YOU SHOULD ABSOLUTELY NOT USE SILICON GASKET SEALER IN AN ENGINE WHERE IT
IS IN CONTACT WITH THE OIL SYSTEM.
The little pieces that are sqeezed out of the joint will set up and may
fall off inside the engine. They can then fall into the oil system and may
cause blockages.
ALFA, I seem to remember, issued a service bulletin which said that the
engine warranty would be voided if silicon sealant were used.
The car manufacturers may provide gaskets which have a silicone applied in
a carefully controlled quantity so that none can get into the engine.
Silicon Gasket Sealer is OK for the water passages I suppose but even there
small bits could clog the radiator tubes.
IMHO, the best material to use is
PERMATEX HYLOMAR HPF Hi-Temp Gasket Dressing
Permatex(r) HYLOMAR(r) HPF Gasket Dressing and Flange Sealant
An exceptional high tack gel sealant that is non-hardening, allowing for
easy disassembly of flanged components even after long-term operation. No-run
formula is compatible with flanged surfaces and mechanical gasketing
materials. Temperature range -60°F to 600°F, resists fuels, lubricants, water,
water/glycol and related engine fluids. Contains no ODC/VOC solvents.
It was originally developed by Rolls Royce over 30 years ago and is
licensed to Permatex.
It is costly (and may not be easy to get) but look at the cost of what you
are protecting!
Well that should set the cat among the pigeons!
Have a nice weekend and don't forget to watch the Spa Formula One Belgium
Grand Prix this weekend (if you get Speedvision)
Cheers
Bruce
To: Alfa Digest <alfa-digest@digest.net>
Subject: Re:Gasket sealant, need everyone opinion.
From: Hirsch <Catenary@compuserve.com>
Date: Sat, 29 Aug 1998 12:11:30 -0400
Content-Disposition: inline
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Reply-To: Hirsch <Catenary@compuserve.com>
Sender: owner-alfa@digest.net
Bruce Murray wrote:
> ...IMHO, the best material to use is PERMATEX HYLOMAR HPF
> Hi-Temp Gasket Dressing...
> ...It is costly (and may not be easy to get) but look at the cost
> of what you are protecting!
Actually it's not that hard to get--for me at least. I buy it at
my local AutoZone. It's Permatex #25249. Good stuff.
BTW, Permatex has a pretty informative website at:
www.loctite.com/
Hylomar info is at:
www.loctite.com/catalog/product.html?ProductLine=AAMHYLMR
Ultra Grey is listed at the site as "designed for high torque
applications (predominantly Japanese designs) requiring a
unique RTV gasket." Odd.
Rich
To: alfa@digest.net
Subject: Re:Gasket sealant, need everyone opinion.
From: Chris.Prael@Eng.Sun.COM (Chris Prael)
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 09:24:28 -0700
Reply-To: Chris.Prael@Eng.Sun.COM (Chris Prael)
Sender: owner-alfa@digest.net
> Date: Fri, 28 Aug 1998 17:48:35 -0400
> From: Bruce Murray <bmurray@bbn.com>
> Subject: Re:Gasket sealant, need everyone opinion.
>
> >
> >I was told to used Permatex Ultra Gray on 164 thermostat housing=20
> >and CAM cover as gasket sealant. It is a very good stuff,=20
> >stay pliable and never hardened. Funny it is a little bit=20
> >hard to find Ultra Gray while there are Ultra Blue, Ultra Black...
> >on every auto store. I finally found one.
> >
> >As for 164 intake duct gasket glue, Ultra gray is not sticky enough.
> >I use Permatex high tack gasket sealant. It's hard to apply but=20
> >easy to clean with alcohol.=20
> >
>
> Well since Karl asks for everyone's opinion here's mine:-
>
> YOU SHOULD ABSOLUTELY NOT USE SILICON GASKET SEALER IN AN ENGINE WHERE
> IT IS IN CONTACT WITH THE OIL SYSTEM.
> The little pieces that are sqeezed out of the joint will set up and may
> fall off inside the engine. They can then fall into the oil system and
> may cause blockages.
>
> ALFA, I seem to remember, issued a service bulletin which said that the
> engine warranty would be voided if silicon sealant were used.
>
> The car manufacturers may provide gaskets which have a silicone applied
> in a carefully controlled quantity so that none can get into the engine.
>
> Silicon Gasket Sealer is OK for the water passages I suppose but even
> there small bits could clog the radiator tubes.
OK, now you get another one.
I raced Alfas for 5 years. I started out using Permatex products to
seal the engine. In the second and third years, I had a series of
failures, all caused by spun main bearings. I made a number of changes
to correct the problem.
One change in engine building which corresponded with the arrival of
reliability was to switch to using only silicon sealer on the whole
engine. So, not only did using silicon sealer cause NO problems, it
appears to have contributed to stopping the problems.
Silicon sealer must be used CORRECTLY. If you slob enough on the
gasquet, a lot of silicon is extruded and certainly can cause problems
as detailed by Bruce. But, WITH CORRECT USE, NO PROBLEMS OCCUR, AND
NO OTHER SEALER IS HALF AS RELIABLE.
That's been my experience with the stuff.
Chris Prael
Hylomar
Date: Fri, 31 Mar 2000 13:18:29 -0600
From: "Toby Stanberry" <tstanberry@jw.com>
Subject: Re: Weber 32/36 install
Just picked up the carb from 4wheel parts. Yep. That adapter sure looks flimsy!!!! Anyway,
thanks for all the help, guys!!!
Toby
Dallas
>>> Thom Singer <ntsqd@shocking.com> 03/31/00 11:21AM >>>
Might try Hylomar instead of white grease. It is a non hardening
Urethane sealant that readily allows parts to separate. It is not fuel
or oil soluble, in fact determined application of Lacquer Thinner only
slowly wears it down and Acetone has little to no effect on it. Yet it
will scrape off with a spatula or gasket scrapper real easily. We use it
on Hewland transaxles in place of gaskets. Permatex is the US
distributor and I've seen it on Pep Boys hangers so I'll assume most
chain stores would have it. This stuff is great, just DO NOT get it on
clothes you like.
> > If you're going to be using the 2 piece adapter from Redline for your
> > install, use a light smidge of white grease between the plates. They're
> known
> > to be a constant source of vacuum leaks.
- --
TS
Chico, CA
Ours go to eleven.
Stripped Threads Prevention
> From: Kirby Mackintosh <arconlyn@iafrica.com.na>
>
> Sunday moring blues for me, when a simple oil change on my KTM Adventure
> R went all wrong. It was obviously too early in the morning for me and I
> turned the smaller of the two sump plugs the wrong way (yep that's
> pretty dumb), and of course the thread stripped. Not sure if its the
> bolt or the casing but my guess is the bolt (plug) won and the casing
> lost. Now the sump plug is loose but won't come out either..... any
> advice as to the best route to follow from here?
>
All is not lost yet. First thing is to get the plug out without further damage. The best way I found is to turn the plug out until it is some what tight to turn, then turn it back in a quarter of a turn. Then turn the plug back and forth until it feels free again. Continue turning it out again until it feels a little tight and repeat the back and forth rotation until it feels free. You should NEVER wrench it out all at once, you will strip the threads into a bloody mess. Once is out, you can use helicoil as suggested, or if you do not feel like doing the machine work or dealing with debris in the engine, the alternate route is to use Permatex "Stripped Thread Repair" kit. It cost about $6 at auto parts stores. It has some epoxy you mix to put in the threaded hole. You will have to use a new plug as a mold to reform the threads on the case. It takes a day to dry. I would go this route if the screw is not a structural part. You don't have to worry about casing thickness or if there is enought material around the hole for an insert.
Ben
Engine & Related Systems
Engine Overheat
The fan clutch shouldn't matter at high speeds. It is really to help to
move air when the engine is idling or moving slowly to increase the air
moving through the radiator.
There is a problem with 22R 22RE engines called temperature overshoot.
The thermostat doesn't react quick enough after the engine is started.
So, the engine gets real hot before the thermostat opens, then
everything is fine after that.
pn #90916-03070 is a special dual stage thermostat that cures this
problem. I have it in my truck.
Fan Clutch
Subject: Fan Clutch
As another post has already stated, the fan clutch should work harder when
hot than when cold. This is due to fluid coupling within the unit. Here
are some tips that I have learned over the years about fan clutches:
1. Tie a kite string around the fan blade to a fixed point in the
engine bay while the vehicle is cold. As it warms, the fluid should couple
the clutches to eventually break the string.
2. Take a section of garden hose and stuff it into the moving fan with
the engine at operating temps. The fan should be very hard to stop, if you
can stop it at all. (The usual safety disclaimers apply here. I have done
this test and my fan never did stop, it just beat the section of hose
mercilessly. Be careful when doing this at home..)
3. The coupling oil itself IS available at your local Toy dealer,
although they usually reserve this for the mechanics that are freshening up
the fans on service work. You must ask specifically for this special oil.
I think it was about $8.00 for the container. This was the correct amount
to drain and replenish a clutch fan. Note: an impact driver helps to
separate the fan pieces once out of the vehicle.
Ed Fisher
Fuel System Cleaner
Subject: Re: Fuel Injector Cleaner
>Awhile back, there was some discussion of fuel injector cleaners, and
>several mentioned success with a product called BG44K. I haven't been able
>to find this product locally, and was wondering if anyone has the
>manufacturer's phone number so I could find a dealer? TIA.
Check the Toyota dealer. That's where I bought some.
Allen Dickenson
Engine Bearing Knock
From: Jim Brink <toytech@off-road.com>
Subject: Re: Time for a new engine...?
bill miranda wrote:
>
> This is mainly directed at Jim Brink, or others in the know...
>
> I am currently hearing a light tapping... metal on metal coming from the
rear
> of my engine (3.0 V6). It increases with revs... up to a point then it
goes
> silent. Let the revs drop and it starts coming back. Does this sound like
a
> main bearing problem? If it is, what would it run to repair? My question
is
> basically,.. repair or replace with a 4.3 Chevy?
This could be a couple of things. I'd attribute it to either valve
adjustment or an exhaust leak at the exhuast crossover and/or manifold
to exhaust pipe flange. Main/rod bearings have a heavier knock sound to
them and usually occur at 1/2 engine rotation. Does the motor exhibit
any other problems other than that noise? No sense in replacing it if
only minor repairs/maintenance is needed.
- --
Jim Brink, Manhattan Beach, CA
Adjust Air Flow Sensor
Original Post
Subject: Re: Adjustable Air flow sensor?
Check out http://www.celicas.org/mods/afm.html for a general overview of
the procedure.
Before you open up the AFM, though, be aware that it is a violation of
federal law to tamper with emissions control equipment. Heh heh.
That said, the procedure described on the above page will get you
started, but the process of fine tuning this is best done by reading the
Vf output of the ECU, as described very concisely last week by Ed Wong:
>The proper way to calibrate the MAF is to use the Vf output.
>
>According to the info I have seen (web page for this seems to have
>disappeared)
>0.0v = rich (trim by 11%-20%)
>1.25v = slight rich (trim by 4%-10%)
>2.50v = normal (tim plus/minus 0% to 3%)
>3.75v = slight lean (enrich by4%-10%)
>5.0v = lean (enrich by by 11%-20%)
>
>After some hunting - here's more info:
>ftp://ftp.supras.com/pub/SONIC/MA70/Vfoutput.txt
>ftp://ftp.supras.com/pub/SONIC/MA70/TNSTCCS2.txt
>
>The basic idea - connect a voltmter to the Vf output.
>Cut the lid off the MAF and adjust away....
>
>DISCLAIMER - this can not be used on vehicles certified for highway use
>(aka under the justdiction of hte EPA et al)
FWIW, as long as you're adjusting the AFM, you should also adjust the
throttle position sensor.
Good luck,
Jeff
Overview Web Page
Fooling the Computer:
A well-known technique used with AFM (mass AirFlow Meter) sensors is to "fool"
the EFI
computer into thinking that there is more air entering the intake than there
actually is. This results in a
richer mixture and often, improved power and throttle response. Here's OldMage's
explanation of
how to do this for the 22RE:
The AFM mod involves cutting the silicone seal on the black cover to gain
access. Once
inside, there's a "curly brace" looking metal clip in the upper left
corner being held down by a
Phillip's screw. Mark with nail polish or similar, the original position of
at least one of the ends.
Then, WHILE HOLDING THE LARGE GEAR WHEEL, loosen the screw allowing the
metal clip to go slack. Turn the gear wheel clockwise to lean the running mixture,
and
counter-clockwise for richer. The idle mixture is largely unaffected by this
adjustment. Do not
adjust any more than 3 teeth in either direction with a stock system. Once you
have the gear
wheel where you want it, tighten the Phillip's screw again to make the metal
clip hold the
wheel in place. Supposedly, a stock system shouldn't need any adjustment, and
won't benefit
much from changes. It's a trade-off; leaner helps off-the-line, richer adds
to the top-end.
You can adjust the idle mixture by carefully drilling out the aluminum plug
in the lower right
"corner" of the AFM near the outlet to the throttle-body. Tightening
the screw beneath the
plug makes the idle richer, loosening it leans the mix.
Another item to consider adjusting is the throttle-position sensor itself.
It's the black square
box on the driver's side of the throttle-body. There's 2 screws that hold it
in place. Loosening
them allows you to rotate the sensor. Clockwise advances the changes relative
to throttle
position. Too far and you'll "disable" the idle position. If you retard
it too much, you'll go into
lean misfire around 3000 rpm. It should go from idle setting to mid throttle
around 2500 rpm,
I think. I wish I had throttle-plate degree measurements or something more precise,
but I
don't. The plastic cover comes off so you can see the switch actions inside,
which may help in
adjusting it.
OldMage
wild 83 Celica GT-S coupe
Beaverton, OR USA
Web Page 1
Hi Guys. The Vf output has three different types of Vf output.
OXYGEN SENSOR FEEDBACK MODE
DIAGNOSTIC MODE
LEARNED VALUE MODE
see below for details
_____________
#1
Oxygen Sensor Feedback Mode.
T and E1 Connected
Idle contact point off
Engine at 2500 rpm
Result of 0x sensor signal processing
5v.......Rich
or
0v........Lean
0v...........Open loop condition
_______________
#2
Diagnostic Mode
T and E1 connected
Idle contact point On
Engine off
Results of Diagnosis
5v........Normal
0v........Trouble code stored
________________
#3
Learned Value Mode
T and E1 not connected
Any Speed
Result of Air-Fuel ratio voltage feedback
0v...........Rich
1.25v.........Normal
2.5v...............Normal
3.75v.........Normal
5v...... ...Lean
Learned Value is
It is a fuel injection correction coefficient which tailors the standard fuel injection duration to minor differences between engines due to manufacturing tolerances, wear, and minor mixtures disturbances like small vacuum leaks.
This coefficient is capable of altering the calculated injection {before Ox correction} by as much as 20% to prevent Ox sensor correction from being excessive.
If you encounter a driveability problem that sets no codes, this Vf voltage feedback can be of some help. Especially code 25/26. {engine condition rich or lean}
Note:
Discard Vf reading when engine is cold.
The Vf learned value tells you how hard the ECU is working to keep the engine
running properly.
After loss of power to ECM, it will take a certain amount of time to relearn,
depending on the engine model and vehicle driving conditions.
The ECM will learn faster if the input signals are stable <Water Temp, Air
Temp, Throttle position sensor, Air, Ox etc>
At high altitude operation, Vf can be 0v but it is considered to be normal
{lack of oxygen}
Vf voltage reading may be different, depending on accuracy of voltmeter, and
connections. However, the number of steps 5 are still the same. {e.g. 1.10v
instead of 1.25, 2.2v instead of 2.5v, 3.5v instead of 3.75v}
Vf voltage can be "border line" also, flipping back and forth between
2 ranges.
_______________
Learned value mode fuel trim conditions
0v 1.25v 2.5v 3.75v 5v
Rich Normal Normal Normal Lean
Ecu Ecu +/- Ecu Ecu
decreases decreases 3% Increase Increase
fuel by fuel by fuel by fuel by
11%-20% 4%-10% 4%-10% 11%-20%
I hope this will help with questions with the Vf output signal
Reg
Web Page 2
SONIC, TECH NOTE SERIES
o2 SENSOR MIXTURE METERS & THE TCCS CLOSED/OPEN LOOP MODES
File Name- TNSTCCS1.TXT
Sept 24/96
___________________
TABLE OF CONTENTS:
SECTION A). SDS O2 MIXTURE METER FUNCTIONS
SECTION B). TCCS CLOSED LOOP MODE
SECTION C). TCCS OPEN LOOP MODE
SECTION D). HOW IT REALLY WORKS
SECTION E). CONCLUSIONS
SECTION F). GAUGES AND INSTRUMENTATION.
___________________
GLOSSARY OF TERMS:
EGT-Exhaust gas temperature
O2- Oxygen sensor
TCCS- Toyota Computer Control System {engine computer}
ECU- Same as above TCCS
LED- Light emitting Diode
CLOSED LOOP MODE- Programmed mode in the TCCS
OPEN LOOP MODE- Programmed mode in the TCCS
WOT- Wide open throttle position
SDS O2 meter- circuit card with LED display
SECTION A). SDS O2 MIXTURE METER FUNCTIONS:
The LED display O2 meter reads the very narrow voltage fluctuation that the
O2
sensor outputs to the TCCS ECU. The meter will display a pulse of LED lights
that are different colors, from left to right the LEDs are colored Red, yellow
and
Green.
*The red LED lights show leaner mixtures than Stoichiometric pronounced
{stock i metric} ratio of 14.7:1 of approximately 14.9:1 to 16.9:1
*The yellow LED lights on the meter suggest the near-perfect Stoichiometric
mixture of 14.7:1. The O2 meter displays the Stoichiometric range on is two
yellow LED's, they show an air fuel mixture of +/_ 14.7:1, this is the perfect
mixture required by the Catalytic converters to meet emission tests. NOTE, this
is not the perfect mixture for producing HP.
Conventional oxygen sensors are designed to be sensitive only in a narrow range
right around Stoichiometry which is 14.7 parts air to 1 part gasoline. This
ratio
is where the amount of air and fuel is matched to obtain the most efficient
combustion. The Stoichiometric ratio is important to maintain for modern
catalytic converters to operate effectively because this is where the three
major pollutants are at their lowest average level. At ratios leaner than 14.7
to
1, NOx levels rise while at ratios richer than 14.7, CO and hydrocarbons rise.
*The green LED lights display mixtures richer than Stoic up to say 11.9:1,
this
is approximately where maximum HP is produced. The perfect mixture for HP
will vary depending on the engine and conditions. When the first or second green
LED is on this is very close to the best mixture for maximum HP and Tq.
16.9:1 14.7:1 11.6:1
R R R y y G G
Lean Stoic Rich
SECTION B). TCCS CLOSED LOOP MODE:
When the 7M or 2JZ are in closed loop mode and everything is operating
correctly the LED's will pulse from the far left RED to the first or second
YELLOW LED. Under some conditions the first GREEN LED will light. This pulse
will increase in frequency depending on engines RPM. Closed loop mode is used
by the TCCS during, idle, medium to moderate loads. With the throttle valve
open
half way the engines will build boost and go like mad with the half-open
throttle valve, the turbo just blows by the half-open valve. In this condition
the
ECU will not shift to open loop mode and normal fuel mixtures in this condition
will be approximately 14.5:1 to 15.9:1. As I have mentioned in earlier tech
notes
the EGT temperature is hotter in this condition than under full WOT conditions
where open loop mode is activated by the TCCS. The EGT in this condition will
hit as much as 1500 degrees' F.
The ECU will use closed loop mode until the throttle plate is opened about
3/4
open to WOT {put the pedal to the metal}. Revving the engine 6500 rpm in any
gear with the throttle half open will not cause the ECU to go into open loop
mode, but the pulsations of the O2 meter will be extremely fast. Open loop will
not be started until the engine is under high load and the throttle plate is
at or
over 68% throttle opening, only then will the ECU shift to open loop mode. When
the throttle is wide open the ECU will move to open loop under all conditions.
The mixture will jump to rich mixtures of 11.9 or 12:1 from the very lean
15.9:1. The EGT will start to drop down to approximately 1300 degrees F.
SECTION C). TCCS OPEN LOOP MODE:
Open loop MODE is only used in the following conditions:
When the engine is cold and warming up at idle the TCCS will use open loop
mode. As soon as the O2 sensor warms up to about 400 degrees F and starts to
send accurate output the ECU will shift to closed loop mode. This function is
necessary to keep the cats from flooding with fuel causing overheated cats and
exhaust fire. This could happen if the TCCS used the closed loop mode before
the
O2 sensor had come to correct operating temperatures. After the O2 sensor has
become lively the ECU will only use the open loop mode for high load conditions,
heavy loads for long periods and WOT.
SECTION D). HOW IT REALLY WORKS:
The 1987 to 1995 TCCS ECUs use learned value mode to trim the long and short
fuel trims, which is shown by the Vf output voltage. The TCCS watches and
learns what is happening in closed loop mode and this data is recorded and used
to form the open loop mode fuel calculations. I have learned this information
from very reliable inside documentation on the function and control of the TCCS
ECU. Some {quote unquote} ECU tuners say that the open loop mode is nothing
more than a fixed map picture in the memory of the TCCS ECU.
I know this is an incorrect statement. I have written proof that the TCCS learns
where to put the open loop map. It is true that there is a base map that is
in
memory but the TCCS can trim this based on engine conditions, air leaks, fuel
pressure problems, old age or any of the other possible contributors. In open
loop mode, the O2 sensor meter will display the shift from the usual pulsating
closed loop swinging LED's to just locking in on one LED suggesting the mixture
coming down the exhaust system.
SECTION E). CONCLUSIONS:
The TCCS ECU truly is a look and learn system, a fantastically advanced fuel
system designed for a very refined and advanced high performance street car
like the Supra. After market ECU's and stand alone fuel systems are good only
because the ECU programmer is the tuner and has full control of the engines
requirements. This is fine if he knows what the engine requirements are, I don't
think he does, not without a lab full of equipment. These stand alone systems
do
not have the built in flexibility of the TCCS system. A race car fuel system
is
not what I want in my street sleeper. A street car has many different
requirements than a race car. When I was working the development of the Lexus
air meter fuel upgrade I witnessed first hand what this little baby can do.
It
learns.
The O2 sensor meter is another useful gauge that gives the driver a visual
look
at what the ECU is doing to keep your engine safe under all the driving
conditions your engine will see. Stop and start traffic, highway cruising or
with
your right foot to the floor board on the street dyno or track. I use this gauge
along with many other meters to give me a good indication of how the engine
is
doing.
On a bone stock Supra this O2 meter is extra gear most likely not needed. Your
TCCS is looking at the condition of your engine hundreds of times a second and
responding to the engine's needs. On the other hand; if the Supra is modified
with the boost cranked up, large injector size, big exhaust, air filters and
upgraded turbos it is a good idea to see that your TCCS is doing its job
correctly.
SECTION F). GAUGES AND INSTRUMENTATION:
I find the O2 meter good piece of mind, I like to know what is happening under
the hood. By watching my test probes in the engine bay I know how hard or easy
my 7M-GTE engine is finding life in my Supra GTE. Some additional readings I
monitor in my car are as follows.
*Vf output- Jeff M's little fire cracker
*O2 data- SDS meter
*EGT Exhaust temp meter- HKS 60mm peak hold warning meter
*CHT, Charge air temp {before & after Intercooler}- Auto Avionics
*CHT, Cylinder head temp {#six spark plugs base temp}- Auto Avionics
*Oil Temp, {probe in oil pan}- HKS DIN warning meter
*Water Temp {probe in rad side of thermostat housing}- HKS DIN warning meter
*Oil Pressure- HKS DIN mechanical meter
*Boost Pressure- Auto meter mechanical
Written By
Reg Riemer
/
{SONIC} Supra Owners Network In Canada
FROM THE HOME OF THE SUPRA GTE
Information provided is given free of charge in good faith without prejudice.
Calgary Alberta Canada. T2V-3G6 Hm#403-259-3106
\
Knocking Sound
It's an '89 22rec 4wd w/ 5speed trans and a standard cab. The problem is
> that I'm getting a bit of ignition pinging. I did check to see if the knock
> sensor was disconnected, but it all looks fine. I notice that the
> pre-ignition pinging is much worse with the air conditioning on.(the
> compressor is a substantial load...)
>
> The pre-ignition is usually at its worst when I'm maintaining a constant
> speed and light throttle, say 35 to 50, and the air conditioning is on.
If
> I step on the throttle, the pinging stops. If I turn the A/C off, it pings
> much less, and less often.
> I was thinking I should check the TPS adjustment, but I only have the specs
> for an 86 truck. Are they the same? I have the timing set at 5degrees
> BTDC at an idle. Knock sensor connected (first thing I checked)
Hi Eric,
This sounds to me like the classic symptoms of a dirty, disconnected, or
malfunctioning EGR system. The first thing to check would be the vacuum
lines associated with the EGR including the EGR backpressure hose. If
all the hoses are connected, remove the EGR vacuum modulator and see if
air passes through it. Occasionally, this modulator will clog or get
dirty and block the vacuum supply to the EGR valve. Sometimes you can
get away with cleaning the modulator filter, other times, it will need
to be replaced. Check the EGR valve itself by applying vacuum to it and
see if the engine stalls or runs rough.
Timing sounds to be right on, 5 degrees BTDC. Check out the EGR first.
Hope this helps!
- --
Jim Brink, Manhattan Beach, CA
Where is Knock Sensor
I asked this question last weekend too. Someone told me its the sensor
located on the intake, in between injector #2 , right up against the
side
of the valve cover (right over the oil filter, but on the top of the
intake). My timing was kinda off, so I thought that's what was causing it.
But I switched to a SR5 cluster, before replacing the timing chain, and
didnt get the smaller bulb housings, so I dont know if I'm still getting the
52 code or not.
Anyone know what the fix is for this? Is the sensor bad or what?
Any help would be much appreciated.
Art
TLCA #8472
Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1999 14:56:57 -0700
From: Rey Nicolas <Rey_Nicolas@digi.com>
Subject: knock sensor ???
Install Valve Stem
Date: Wed, 8 Sep 1999 12:40:07 -0500 (CDT)
From: Brian Wiencek <bwiencek@kcnet.com>
Subject: RE: O2 sensor and valve seals
> > 2 I would like to change the valve seals on the same motor without
taking
> > off the head. I have the valve tool made for this. The rocker
> > arms are in
> > the way and are held in by the head bolts. If I take the bolts off
will I
> > desturb the head gasket? Can I retork them when done or do I need
new
> > bolts? Any in put would be welcome.
>
> Can this be done? I'm curious.
Ok, here's one way of doing it
1) remove valve cover
2) remove rocker shaft / head bolts.
3) disassemble rocker arm shafts
4) install bare rocker shaft "stands" onto the head
5) torque back down bolts
6) use compressed air or a length of rope to hold valve up (take 1/4"
rope, tie big knot in one end, feed about 2 feet down the hole, rotate
engine until rope is pressed against valves)
7) remove valve spring using valve spring compressor tool (cheap one is
~$10-20 at most parts stores in the lisle brand?)
8) install new stem seals and re-assemble in reverse.
Make sure you get the rocker arms back in their proper location and you'll
be just fine.
- - Brian
SAE paper on Slick50
11. H. Shaub, et al., "Engine Durability, Emissions and Fuel Economy Benefits
of Special
Boundary Lubricant Chemistry," SAE Paper 941983, October 1994.
P.S. The "snake oil" article floating around the internet by Fred
Rau is
several years old, and he has long since changed his mind on this topic. He's
writing up a new article for ROAD RIDER magazine.
Where Oil Gauge
Water temp - it's by the thermostat housing (upper radiator hose) The oil
pressure sender is below the intake, on the passenger side of the engine
about 1/2 way front-to-back on the block... About 2" above the oil pan.
If you're looking to add an aftermarket guage there is an oil port on the
drivers side that can be used also.
- - Brian
Subject: Re: oil pressure guage and water temp guage??
Unless you found gauges with metric fittings you will need to purchase a 10M
X
1.5M to 1/8NPT fitting. If you bought a mechanical gauge it will most likely
have 1/8NPT fittings. I still have my mechanical water temp gauge sitting on
the
shelf as I could not find an opening big enough for the sender. The stock sender
location will not work, it is too small. I thought about the coolant drain plug
on the block but awhile back someone told me the reading would always be hot
and
erratic. Any listers have any luck with this? Also don't bother hooking back
up
the oil press. idiot light. I did and was shocked when it turned off at under
10psi.
PS: Thank You to everyone who replied to my broken mirror question, I am going
to hit the local parts stores today and look for a replacement. If I am unlucky
I will be giving you a call Andy.
> I am having some touble locating where i am supposed to plug these in on
> my 85 22re. Since i lost my shop manual i have no way of tracking the
> spot where they go into the engine is at and could use some help if
> anyone knows?
John Smith 79 FJ40, 87 Std Cab
Subject: oil pressure guage and water temp guage??
I have gone through the 22RE "temp" guage confusion, so
Id thought I'd rewrite/repost my finding...
It turns out there are TWO temp sensors on the 22RE.
One is for the EFI computer
One is for the temp guage.
It seems that the one for the EFI computer uses two wires,
and is *very* expeinsive - like $80 last time I checked.
The guage for the instrument cluster is mucho cheaper
and uses only one wire.
The EFI temp guage is located on the "forward" part of the
intake manifold - near the #1 cycl and underneath
in the area where the water outlet connects to the
radiator (aka the top hose).
There are two similar looking fittings here - one is
for the CSI (cold start injector) and one is for the
EFI temp sensor. I dont recall which one is which.
Thats why I have a shop manual :)
The instrument cluster temp sensor is located in
the intake manifold as well - in between the #2
and #3 intake runners. Its "down" below the top
of the valve cover (no duh) and has one wire going
to it. Its located "up/down" and can easily be
removed with a deep socket. Because the hole is so
small - you can pull the sensor and replace it with
almost NO loss of coolant - a 1 bannana job and a 15min
parking lot fix (if the engine is cold!).
The sensor is also cheaper - like under $10 if I
recall correctly.
As far as the oil pressure - its near where the oil
filter is - a bit closer to the firewall
than the filter but higher than the starter and
below the fuel filter. I thought it was a 10mmx1.25 pitch
thread and not 10mmx1.5, but hey - I could be wrong.
I ran the 10mm adapter to a 1/8 NPT "T" fitting and used
one NPT male fiting for a pressure guage (Autometer)
and used the 1/8NPT female (and alot of teflon pipe tape)
for the OEM oil pressure sender light. The "T" was
brass so it was kinda soft.
But - as smithjn@us.ibm.com points out - the OEM
idiot light goes "off" a a very low pressure.
My read is that the OEM lihgt goes on at much lower
than 10 - closer to 3lbs!!!!!! This means that
the oil pressure light is a "pull over and
buy a new engine" light.
Im now running an Autometer warning light
connected to a 20lb switch...(might be 25lbs - I ferget which)
EWong
Oil Consumption
Date: Fri, 1 Oct 1999 12:12:52 EDT
From: DOARACING@AOL.COM
Subject: Re: New 22RE oil consumption ATT: Gerry P.
Hi Gerry. I've seen some strange things occur with pcv systems. One such
happening was where the gasket between the valve cover and baffle had
deteriorated to the point of allowing excess oil to be passed through the pcv
valve, and the forward breather port. The only way to access - change this
gasket, which few even are aware exists, is to pop the casting "rivets"
that
attach the baffle to the cover, this can be done by drilling them also.Very
common in the aftermarket world. I just went through this woe with one of my
85's. Hope you figure it out soon.
Tim @ DOA
Fuel Injection Fitting
Date: Fri, 15 Oct 1999 14:25:10 -0400
From: Ed.Wong@astrapharmaceuticals.com
Subject: Fuel Inj Fittings?
The following Web Page lists a "SST type" part that I have been lookign
for...
http://fly.hiwaay.net/~rcarlile/fpg/fpg1.htm
>The Toyota part number for the SST fitting is 000TG-01252
In this case the part is a 12mm to AN4 banjo bolt.
It allows the connection of a fuel pressure guage.
The web page then depicts both a 10mm version and a 8mm version
(no part number was given)
The 8mm version is of particular interest to the 22RE folks as thats the size
of the banjo bolts used on the Cold Start Injector - CSI - the easiest
fuel hose to get at to connect a pressure guage.
OTC makes a similar item #7427 on page 57 of the web catalog.
Unfortunately, the local OTC retail rep (a "real" parts store - happens
to be a CarQuest) called the OTC regional supplier and the
answer is that *all* the OTC part numbers I found that could be used
for this show up as "blanks" when the search was made. In other
words - the OTC parts are non-existant even though they are listed
as real in teh OTC catalog (we double checked using their OTC catalog)
Anyway - Scott Tate or other dealer types - can the above parts actually be
obtained?
Or do I have to resort to getting a Nissan part numebr (ala breather hose)!
Tim@DOA - how do people connect a EFI fuel pressure guage on the "racing"/street
engines?
Ewong
Date: Fri, 15 Oct 1999 22:42:27 EDT
From: DOARACING@AOL.COM
Subject: Re: Fuel Inj Fittings? What I do (DOA) for fuel taps. ATT: Ewong
For a gauge (f/p) source, I drill and tap the fuel rail end, which is a steel
part (no real threat of stripping) and use an AN fitting, and braided line
for the lead. Cold start injectors tend to dribble, allowing an "un true"
reading in some cases. The rail access method is very straight forward, and
allows gauge mounting in any location, although, I highly recommend keeping
live fuel related items on the intake side.
Tim @ DOA
Timing Chain
Date: Tue, 19 Oct 1999 11:08:24 -0400
From: "Kevin A. Michael" <blkvoodoo@sprynet.com>
Subject: Autozone tensioner
<snip>
Uhhh... wait a second... you must like swapping out that chain. Why put
ANOTHER cheap Autozone tensioner back in?
Remember the old saying: "Fool me once, shame on you. Fool me twice, shame
on me."
<snip >
I went through a situation earlier this summer with timing chains and the
like.
A friend bought a kit form a source well known to the list because it
contained the coveted "unbreakable" pieces we all want for our 22R
engines.
The kit contained the SAME timing components ( chain, tensioner, gears )
that Auto Zone sells.
I found this a little puzzling so I went shopping around and found out a few
things;
I went to Car Quest, NAPA, Advanced Auto, Parts America ( before Advanced
bought them ), and Pep Boys.
Looked at all the timing sets for the 22R-22RE engines. Guess what... THEY
ARE ALL THE SAME !! Just a different box.
The gears all had the same casting numbers, the chains had the same
stampings, and in most cases the part number was the same. They all had the
same cheesy plastic guides that we all hate ( except the one ) .
The only one that was different was from an Import Auto parts house and
I'll not even go into the quality comparison. ( poor quality )
The only thing different about each kit was the price and WHAT a price
range there was ! ( $50- $130 a set )
What it comes down to is this, Go with what you know worked the best for
the longest, changing only the parts you know will break ( The Toyota chain,
gears, and tensioner worked well for most everyone, it's the guides that
suck )
I have replaced my timing set twice now, first time at 192k, pulled out the
factory stuff cuz the guides broke, the second time because the guides
again(32k on the set, The steel guides were not known to me at the time ).
I now have the steel guides ( nice pieces ) and am confident I will not
have to pull the engine apart again for quite some time.
" Let the buyer beware "
Kevin Michael
'85 Toyota 4Runner
Optima red top, 8k Ramsey, Hi-lift, K&N, RS 9000's, Downey 3"
Bridgestone Dueler MT's 32x11.5, Lockright (rear)
http://blkvoodoo.home.sprynet.com
http://cnc.4x4.org
Valve Clearance
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 1997 09:56:44 -0500
From: "Edward C. Fisher"
Subject: Toy4x4 Digest V1 #127
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
At 12:30 AM 4/12/97, you wrote:
>Run the engine until it reaches normal operating temperature on the
>gauge--with the valve cover on! If you take it loose first, you will
>have an oily mess. The motor will stay hot enough to adjust all of the
>valves. Be careful of hot exhaust components.
>- --
FYI to all:
You can set the valve clearances to .007 and .011 cold, instead of heating
the car up and setting to .008 and .012. I have done this, and then warmed
the car to operating temp and re-checked. The clearances are the same. I
learned this trick from a 20+ year Toyota service tech.
Ed F.
- ------------------------------------------------------
Edward C. Fisher E-Mail: edwd@ti.com
Process Engineering Team Phone: (214) 995-6305
DMD Components Group Pager: (214) 410-4669
Texas Instruments, Inc. MSGID: EDWD
- ------------------------------------------------------
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 07:30:17 -0500
From: "Edward C. Fisher"
Subject: tranny fluid change (long)
I also posted that valves can be set at .007 and .011 cold. Again, this is
what is being done by at least one superior Toyota expert at at least one
finely run shop. I have set mine cold, brought the vehicle up to operating
temp, and rechecked the clearance with a good go-no-go guage, and the
clearances were correct. I will never burn my hands again.
The bottom line is, to each his own. I didn't get really detailed in my
first explanation and that is my fault. You folks don't know me all that
well, and I only post when I have something to say that may be of help or
relevance.
Ed Fisher
Engine Rebuild
Date: Wed, 27 Oct 1999 09:40:46 -0400
From: Ed.Wong@astrapharmaceuticals.com
Subject: Engine Rebuild
>> [edited]
As it stands right now the motor has 240,000 miles on it.
And the timing chain slaps the cover like nothing else.
[which rebuild kit]
<<
If the compression is OK - put in a new chain an keep going...
If ya drop the oil pan to do the chain (optional but better IMHO)
then Id slip in new thrust bearings - - you can do that w/o
taking the crank off. Its a pretty cheap fix and yer already
there anyway.
EWong -
305K and still going....
Plug Wires
>
> Had two Magnecores pull out the first time I pulled them to change the
plugs.
> They wouldn't send me any but said they would repair them. Kept on tellin
me
> that it's probably my fault for pulling it off wrong. So I ordered two
and sent
> two back to decrease downtime. Never got the two returned that I sent in
for
> repair.
>
Tim at DOA uses ACCEL 300+ 8.8mm wires in his turn key motors,I replaced
my Magnecor with these wires and i noticed a big improvement .Leonel
Quinteros TLCA #8612
Engine Rebuilds
Date: Sat, 4 Dec 1999 15:04:57 -0700
From: "Shaun" <shauntrin@prodigy.net>
Subject: Fw: Impressive Engine Remanufacturers
Just wanted to let all listers know that I had an excellent
conversation with Michael Blackwelder at East Coast Performance today.
He spent a significant amount of time describing the engines that are
remanufactured there. Sounds like a much better way to get a
remanufactured engine than through one of the enormous engine rebuild
clearinghouses like ATK. Their technicians are all Toyota factory
certified and one of them also works at a Toyota dealership. All that
they do is Toyota engines and that speaks volumes to me. Some of the
many features are a decked block ( along with properly machined
pistons so that the compression ratio is the same as stock ), factory
oil pump, high quality rod and thrust bearings, piston rings, etc.
Complete 22 series engines are available, but for the V6 only the
short block is available. Some balancing/blueprinting is available
for the 4bangers but at this point those services are not available
for the 6. In the future, these services may be available for the V6
if there is a demand for them. Anyway, I was impressed that these
folks talked with me at length even though I told them that I was no
where near needing to get another engine, I was also impressed by
their product knowledge, and dedication to the Toyota product in
specific. If you're in need of another engine, I'd definitely give em
a ring!
1-800-470-6511 Michael L Blackwelder
Oil Pressure Gauge
Date: Sat, 1 Jan 2000 21:10:37 +0100
From: "Marco Schotman" <toyotaro@zeelandnet.nl>
Subject: Re: normal SR5 oil pressure gauge behavior
I see regular postings about the misread on the oil pressure gauges after
swapping in the SR5 dash gauge clusters, I had the same problem when I did
mine.
The local toy dealer says Im wrong, but I still believe there is somewhere a
resistor in the wiring harness for the SR5 models, or the dealer sold me the
wrong sender. (he says theres only one...)
Anyway, the oil gauge is nothing more then a volt meter, the sender is a
variable resistor.
So I hooked up an extra variable resistor (pot) in the sender wire and start
adjusting it until the gauge reads zero with the ignitionkey ON but the
engine OFF. Then I started the engine to check the gauge, just perfect! It
reads now zero with the engine off, midrange when idling and highrange with
a little trothle.
To make this a definitive solution (the little pot was realy getting hot) I
measured the value, was something like 150 Ohm (if I remember right) I
couldnt find heavy duty resistors with this value at the shop so I took 2 *
300 Ohm and solderd them paralel at the back of the gauge cluster unit.
Works fine for more then 25000 km now.
Marco Schotman, the Netherlands.
-Toyotaro- Fahrvergn?gen?
'89 4x4 crewcab pickup, 2.4 turbo diesel
http://people.zeelandnet.nl/schotman
SR5 Oil Pressure
Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2000 15:48:03 -0700
From: "Kevin R. Frederick" <fredekr@sweng.stortek.com>
Subject: Re: normal SR5 oil pressure gauge behavior
Marco Schotman wrote:
> So I hooked up an extra variable resistor (pot) in the sender wire
...
> To make this a definitive solution (the little pot was realy getting hot)
I
> measured the value, was something like 150 Ohm (if I remember right) I
> couldnt find heavy duty resistors with this value at the shop so I took
2 *
> 300 Ohm and solderd them paralel at the back of the gauge cluster unit.
> Works fine for more then 25000 km now. For anyone still following this
thread, I just finalized my fix by
adding a resistor to my SR5 cluster based on Marco's suggestion. I misread Marco's
advice at first and just put an extra resistor in the wire off the sending unit
-- this makes the gauge read lower, and I needed higher. The fix that worked
is as follows: I used 300 Ohms total resistance (two 150 Ohm resistors in series).
I found a convenient place on the back of my cluster to wire this: I noticed
there's an unused indicator lamp socket in the bottom-most socket on the oil
pressure gauge side of my cluster. This socket is also connected to the oil
pressure gauge (if you put an extra bulb in this socket it'll disable the oil
pressure gauge; putting a resistor directly in this socket makes the gauge read
lower). So, I used an extra lamp socket, took out one contact, and wired my
resistors between the side of the lamp socket which connects to the oil pressure
gauge and a nearby ground screw on the temp gauge. Easy to fiddle with and kept
my bumbly soldering skills from mucking up the cluster! Mine now reads at under
3/4 for around 4000 RPM, right at halfway at about 2000 RPM, just above 1/4
mark for hot idle, and sits at just under zero with engine off and ignition
on.
cheers,
Kevin
AC Idler Bearing
Date: Sun, 2 Jan 2000 17:05:07 -0500
From: Agustinus Gunawan <aharjadi@maysvilleky.net>
Subject: RE: ac idler pully bearing
6204ZZ with steel shield or 6204R with rubber seal
- -----Original Message-----
From: Paul Czapiga [SMTP:Pooltech4u@webtv.net]
Sent: Sunday, January 02, 2000 4:27 PM
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Subject: ac idler pully bearing
Does anyone know the bearing part number for the a/c idler pully? Toyota
wants a fortune for theirs, and I've heard it can be had for 7-8
dollars.
Please email me off the list.
Thanking you in advance
Paul
http://community.webtv.net/Pooltech4u/POOLTEHSERVICES
Timing Chains
Date: Sun, 9 Jan 2000 00:25:43 EST
From: Dan4runr85@AOL.COM
Subject: Timing Chains
Thought that I would share the trouble I have had with aftermarket parts to
list to help others avoid this stuff. Seems that the timing kits that the Carquest
stores sell, the keyway, and or the teeth, are degreed wrong on the cam sprocket
and the crank sprocket. I have found this out after a bit of work to fix my
trucks badly rebuilt motor. The only way to go is Toyota parts and or other
proven quality aftermarket suppliers. Hard lesson in the labor dept. (mine)
to find out who does the quality and who doesn't :o(
I'll put the Toyota parts in this week so I can go wheeling to Last Chance Canyon
on Saturday and Sunday :o)
I really hope this helps somebody else avoid this type of problem.
Danny
Date: Sun, 9 Jan 2000 00:59:57 -0500
From: "fjs4evr" <fjs4evr@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: Timing Chains
On that note, someone posted before if you do go the aftermarket route, to
use stuff only made in Japan, not China....Ask at the counter before you
buy!
Art
Chain Tensioner
Date: Mon, 10 Jan 2000 10:55:15 -0600
From: Troy Yoder <tnbyoder@flash.net>
Subject: Re: head gasket DNF update
Thom,
I was told that you should be able to get a pry-bar down to the
tensioner, and relieve the tension that way. I wasn't able to make it
work though. I ended up pulling the cover.
I'm not sure I would pry the upper sprocket,that seems like it would
damage the chain or worse.
Troy
> It would appear that the tensioner has come out far enough that the
> timing chain won't let the sprocket back up onto the cam. One semi-hack
> mech. told me he just uses a pry bar to lever it up onto the cam. Anyone
> got a better method ?
------------------------------
Chain Tensioner
Date: Mon, 10 Jan 2000 12:33:42 EST
From: DOARACING@AOL.COM
Subject: Re: Getting chain tensioner retracted...
Simply counter rotate the motor to recess the tensioner.
Tim @ DOA
Date: Mon, 10 Jan 2000 22:40:55 -0500
From: Patrick Stanley <pstanley@intelos.net>
Subject: Timing chain
I just pull up on the cam gear and use a breaker bar and socket on the crank. I then move the crank back and forth a little and you can feel it give and the cam gear will slip right on. I would avoid putting a pry bar or anything else for that matter down in there. You may wind up like I did and the bar slip and then there goes the tensioner down to the bottom of the timing cover and the tensioner get ruined in the process.
Patrick(Lil Toy) in VA
Date: Mon, 10 Jan 2000 21:10:03 -0800
From: Thom Singer <cbovee@dock.net>
Subject: Re: Getting chain tensioner retracted...
I gently lifted up on the cam sprocket with a pry bar and rotated the
crank until the sprocket groove matched the cam's drive pin (less than
1/16 rotation) and the sprocket popped on like it was supposed to be there.
DOARACING@AOL.COM wrote:
>
> Simply counter rotate the motor to recess the tensioner.
>
> Tim @ DOA
Ed.Wong@astrapharmaceuticals.com wrote:
>
> Doing thing the hard way - remove the timing chain cover and
> use yer finger?
SnatchRope@AOL.COM wrote:
>
> I alway's use a long screwdriver ,and a flashlight , works for me hope
it
> works for you
- --
TS
Off-list mail to: ntsqd@mail.csuchico.edu
My opinion is worth what you're paying for it.
Celica, Truck & 4Runner 22R-E
Diagnosis Manual
Toyota Computer-Controlled System
This manual was published by Toyota and covers every detail of 22RE TCCS Diagnosis
. There are approximately 100 pages of schematics, diagrams, troubleshooting
flow charts,explanation and procedures to guide you through any maintenance
task. If you own or work on these vehicles, this guide will help you understand
and pinpoint problems quickly. The book is new .
Timing Chain
Date: Tue, 28 Mar 2000 10:59:28 -0500
From: "Art Urban" <fjs4evr@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: Timing Chain
He means if you remove the valve cover, turn the crank by hand and line up
your timing mark at 0 degrees. Then you turn the crank until the cam just
starts to move, then look at where the timing mark is. If you have more than
10 degrees of slack, replace the chain. Mine had about 12 on it when I did
mine. I cant remember whether the manual states 12 or 15 degrees as the max.
Art
Date: Tue, 28 Mar 2000 12:12:33 EST
From: DOARACING@AOL.COM
Subject: Re: Timing Chain
Well, to go into more detail, the pin barrels on a timing chain settle. The
chainwheels, or sprockets, wear in as well. Both combined are titled as chain
stretch, although I don't really feel it's the links that physically stretch,
it's called chain stretch all the same. My recommendation is this. If you
pull the valve cover, so to see the upper chainwheel, and set the lower
pulley to 5*, you can then move the lower pulley either to the left or right,
and make note of how many degrees of pulley movement have occurred before cam
movement begins. Do this in both directions, and note the total degrees. 10*,
and the timing assembly no longer is adequate for steady accell-decell timing
amounts. It will allow too much fluctuation for steady timing, and that is a
pure power robber.
Tim @ DOA
Head Gasket
Date: Wed, 29 Mar 2000 14:10:35 -0500
From: "Thomas R. Bank" <trbankii@microserve.net>
Subject: Head Gasket Job (Reassembly)`
Continuing the story here, this is how things went back together on my '85
22R
head gasket rebuild.
Since the radiator was out of the truck anyway, I took it in to the local shop
to have it cleaned out. They found a crack forming and fixed that up as well,
so it is good that I took it in when I did. Similarly, since the cylinder head
was out of the truck, I took it in to a machine shop and had the head milled
as
well as the valves and seats ground and new seals put in.
Roger Brown shared the suggestion to use ARP’s head studs in place of
the head
bolts. The part number is 203-4201 and they are available from Summit for a
bit
over $100. If I were keeping the engine, I would have definitely gone with
them. As it was, I had other things to spend $100 on so I went with the
original bolts.
Things went back together smoothly. I left the radiator out until the very
end,
just to give me more room to work. The only thing that slowed me down was
getting the timing chain and sprocket back on the cam. Again, the service
manual was little help. Similar to disassembly, they have you putting the fuel
pump in place before putting the sprocket and such on. The fuel pump can be
the
very last thing that you put back on if you want; just make sure you put it
on
after the sprocket and drive gears are in place. The manual also recommends
turning the camshaft back and forth while pulling up on the chain and sprocket
to get things in place. Right! Someone explain to me what that is supposed to
do for you. What needs to be done is to push the chain tensioner in so that
you
have some slack. While searching around and trying different tools to reach
down inside the chain cover, I finally found the perfect tool. It is even
supplied by Toyota with each truck! The extension for the spare tire hoist!
I
snaked it down inside the cover, pushed the tensioner in, and slipped the
sprocket onto the cam. Beautiful! It also helps to leave the oil pan off until
this point as you can lay a drop light underneath the truck so that you can
see
what you are doing as you reach down into the timing chain cover to push on
the
tensioner.
Here is the cost breakdown:
Head gasket kit (NAPA) - $87
Timing chain gasket kit (NAPA) - $22
Radiator repair and cleaning - $70
Cylinder head machine work - $95
DOA guides (w/ shipping) - $75
Oil, filters, anti-freeze, misc. - $35
Total spent on project - $384
“Ballpark figure” from local Toyota dealer - $1400
The first dealer said that it was not worth doing that much work on such an
old
truck. The second one was more than willing to do the work. Of course, he
would not give a firm quote until they saw the truck (I called after I was
finished with all of the work). I explained that I had the head gasket leak
and
wanted the timing chain guides replaced and the cylinder head work done while
they were in there. So their price does not include the radiator work. They
wanted to let me know that they could not give me a firm estimate until they
had
a chance to open it up and pretty much told me that it could end up costing
even
more.
So that is the story. After the successful completion of this project I am
never again going to have a mechanic work on my truck. I feel pretty confident
about my skills at this point. If anyone wants to ask more questions, please
feel free to contact me. I only wish that I had a digital camera to document
the process for someone to put up on a website.
- --
Argue for your limitations, and sure enough, they're yours.
- --
TLCA #8536 (Digest mode)
- --
Hylomar
Date: Fri, 31 Mar 2000 13:18:29 -0600
From: "Toby Stanberry" <tstanberry@jw.com>
Subject: Re: Weber 32/36 install
Just picked up the carb from 4wheel parts. Yep. That adapter sure looks flimsy!!!!
Anyway,
thanks for all the help, guys!!!
Toby
Dallas
>>> Thom Singer <ntsqd@shocking.com> 03/31/00 11:21AM >>>
Might try Hylomar instead of white grease. It is a non hardening
Urethane sealant that readily allows parts to separate. It is not fuel
or oil soluble, in fact determined application of Lacquer Thinner only
slowly wears it down and Acetone has little to no effect on it. Yet it
will scrape off with a spatula or gasket scrapper real easily. We use it
on Hewland transaxles in place of gaskets. Permatex is the US
distributor and I've seen it on Pep Boys hangers so I'll assume most
chain stores would have it. This stuff is great, just DO NOT get it on
clothes you like.
> > If you're going to be using the 2 piece adapter from Redline for your
> > install, use a light smidge of white grease between the plates. They're
> known
> > to be a constant source of vacuum leaks.
- --
TS
Chico, CA
Ours go to eleven.