Parts Evaluation

Old Man EMU

Leaf Springs

To Order Call: 1-800-216-1632

First, I want to thank Ken Flesher for his heated garage and his time.

We worked all day Saturday and into Sunday morning installing a "simple"

leaf spring suspension.

We cut off the rear front hanger bolts to save time but it still took us

a long time. The rear leaf pack was also too thick for the factory

U-bolts. I had to remove one the smaller overload leaf out (two overload

leaves come on the spring). The front drag link was hitting the the rear

u-bolt on the front suspension. A quick grind and it fixed the

interference. I paid for a "low" profile u-bolt but that has yet to

arrive from ARB. I was also told I did not need this u-bolt unless I was

at full droop. So much for that. When the truck was at rest, the drag

link hit the u-bolt.

I thought this was a 2 inch lift. I really didn't want anything more. It

turns out to be more like a 4 inch lift. I am hoping they will settle

out.

before after

Front left 34 9/16 38 5/8

Front right 34 5/16 38 1/8

Rear left 32 1/16 36 3/4

Rear right 32 1/16 37 1/8

I do have an extra leaf in the pack that make these OME springs the HD

versions (91 A/B and 171) but they shouldn't be providing any more lift

than the normal versions. Actually, the OME 171 rear springs are

supposed to a 60mm lift, while the OME 17 are a 50 mm, a 10mm

difference. Remember, I removed a thick overload leaf out to make the

rear u-bolts fit.

I was planning on using the shocks on the truck until I was able to

figure out the right size Rancho to use. But, since it was a 4 inch

lift, the front Bilsteins barely attached and the rear Monroe Magnums

couldn't even reach! So, I was able to loosen the stud mount to allow

the Bilsteins a little more movement and drove home without rear shocks.

It was a 90 mile drive home ;-) The truck did OK since leafs do have a

bit of friction in them. So, I needed the new shocks right away. I did

measure full drop on the rear suspension, and took some measurements of

the shocks at the rear, minus bumpstop to frame. I ordered 4 Rancho

9000s from Four Wheel Wholesalers and I got lucky and caught a sale!!!!

4 RS9000 for less than $200! with free shipping.

Here are a few other's you may want to check out. Goodyear Wrangler

AT/S. These are relatively new in Goodyear's line-up of tires. They

are replacing the wrangler AT's with these. Real agressive looking,

but yet quiet on road and good for an AT off-road. Another one to look

at would be the Goodyear Workhorse Extragrip. It is an awesome tire

for year round use. Excellent in the snow. Has a little bigger lug than

most AT's, but it is quiet on road. It is a special service tire and

compound, very puncture resistant. Another good one would be the Cooper

Discoverer LT. It is a good all around performing tire.

In case you were wondering, I do work in the tire business and personallly,

I would go for the Workhorse. It is one of the most popular tires for

all around use up here in Fairbanks Alaska. Only thing is i wish Goodyear

woul have made them in a 33" tire. You can get them up to a 31" in 15"

or up 265/75R16 in 16" sizes.

Hope this helps and if you have any other questions please e-mail me

at:

Jim,

I just received the front and rear greasable pins for my OME suspension.

I also received that flat top U-Bolt to stop the drag link from hitting.

I just want to thank you for your quick response!

Gary wrote:

> I am considering putting the +2" spring set from OME, but I've heard that

> it is actually a 4" lift. Will I need to do anything to the driveshaft or

> the transfer case. I don't want to have any strange vibrations that I've

> seen people mention. Also will I need to lengthen the brake lines?

I do have extended SS brake lines. I believe they are 3 inches longer

than stock. The only vibration I have noticed is when I deaccelerate at

high speed. It only happens during the transition between part throttle

and no throttle. But once the engine RPMS are reduced, it goes away. I

am not sure if it is one of the following things:

1) Exhaust leak. I have one bad 8 inch section.

2) U-joint by transfer case.

3) Pinion bearing.

4) bearing on the transfer case output.

I wouldn't say the suspension brought this on. I would say that it

highlighted it for me. I know I have a seal leak at my rear output of my

transfer case. I will also be replacing the diff with a new locking

diff. U-joint is easy to replace. I have already replaced the aft

u-joint. I should have replaced the front u-joint at the time. It just

means I need to do some work in these areas.

I don't think the angles are extreme. Even though I said the OME lift

was 4 inches, that was over sagged stock springs. It might be closer to

3 inches from a fresh factory suspension.

- --

Cheers,

Spark Plug Mods.

An old (80 or so) mechanic/machinist/racer told me to buy the ND plugs

and file the ground electrode back to where it ends in the center of

the other electrode...and you don't have to be too exacting.Just put

a piece of shim stock over the +electrode so you don't damage it. says

you get a better spark(cheaply). He said they used to have this design

for marine engines, I think he said in the 60s. Try it, you may like

it. I do.Not big $s to check it out.

mike

Jeep Springs

Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 09:30:46 -0500

From: Darren Floen <dfloen@tbaytel.net>

Subject: Re: Brake lines

I have wrangler front springs in my truck,and i never had to do anything

with the spring mounts.Are you sure they are Wrangler springs?My

wrangler springs were the same length as stock.I use the stock wrangler

bushing at one end,and a poly bushing from a chevy half ton at the other

end.

Travel is awesome.

I've had mine in for a year now,and i had to beef the up with an extra

leaf that i made by cutting the eyes off a another main leaf and using

it for a second leaf.I can still compress them to the bumpstops.Without

shocks,i get get like 15+" of shock travel,but i only have 11" travel

shocks.I had to extend the shock mounts,and i used Pro-Crap ES3000

shocks for a 2" lift Wrangler application.I have 3 1/4" between the

bumpstops and frame,with 1-1/2" longer than stock shackles.I run a

snowplow,though,and that kinda pounds the springs.Even without the

plow,the springs do need to be beefed up a bit.

Darren

Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 11:14:24 -0500

From: Darren Floen <dfloen@tbaytel.net>

Subject: Re: [Brake lines]

Stability was not really good until i stiffened them up a bit.I still

think they are too soft.Without my swaybar,it will compress all the way

to the bumpstops on a 15mph off-ramp.I have zip ties on my shock shafts

(without boots)to verify this.Needless to say,i always run a swaybar on

the street.

My mega stiff rear springs aggravate this problem,by making the front

end plow through corners(understeer).But if i was looking for a sports

car,i wouldn't be running 33" mudders.

Darren

Steve Keene wrote:

> Ok now, I've heard of this before, but never had details. I question using the

> springs of a lighter jeep on something as heavy as a truck. Will we be

> replacing the springs annually? What about stability on the freeway?

Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 11:18:18 -0500

From: "Lawson, Chris" <CLawson@comdial.com>

Subject: RE: Brake Lines

Thanks for the reply guys,

Darren, yes they are from a 95' 4cyl Wrangler, I helped do the lift on the

J* *p, thus the low cost of the springs.

>Travel is awesome.

Agreed, I just need to move the axel foward @ 1" in order to maintain the

stock axel position.

>I've had mine in for a year now,and i had to beef the up with an extra

>leaf that i made by cutting the eyes off a another main leaf and using

>it for a second leaf.I can still compress them to the bumpstops.

When I move the front mounts, I plan on adding that same leaf. My problem

resides in the shocks also. I will compress the shocks untill they stop the

travel completely but yet I still have an inch or two before full stuff, I

guess relocating the upper shock mount would cure this.

Again, thanks for the reply.

Chris Lawson

TLCA 7792

85' stan cab

Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 11:26:19 -0500

From: Darren Floen <dfloen@tbaytel.net>

Subject: Re: Brake lines

I forgot to mention it before,but stock Wrangler springs use a 5/16"

centerbolt,Toyotas use 3/8".You really need to drill the holes to 3/8"

for better axle location.5/16" bolts have a smaller head than 3/8 center

bolts and are very loose on the axle perch.

Darren

Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 11:44:48 -0500

From: Darren Floen <dfloen@tbaytel.net>

Subject: Re: Brake Lines

Thats really odd,because i had 4 Jeep springs,2 fronts+2 rears,left over

from my Jeep.I took them all apart and had them spread out on my Garage

floor.The fronts and the rears were all the same as the stock Toy leafs.

Mine were from a 1990 6cyl YJ(with AC+hardtop).I wonder if that makes

any difference.I extended(and reinforced)my stock shock mounts by 5.5"

to use the Pro comp shocks.

Rather than moving your front mounts,just turn the leafs end for end,if

yours have any centerpin offset.

Mine are installed in the stock jeep position.My shackle is at the stock

hanger end,my hanger is at the springs stock shackle end.

I kept the jeep two piece rubber bushing(Jeep shackle end)for my hanger

end,and used a Energy poly bushing at the other end with 3/4" bolts.I

had to srew the bolts into the bushing with my impact.

Is this what you did?

Darren

Lawson, Chris wrote:

>snip>

> Agreed, I just need to move the axel foward @ 1" in order to maintain the

> stock axel position.

<snip>

> When I move the front mounts, I plan on adding that same leaf. My problem

> resides in the shocks also. I will compress the shocks untill they stop the

> travel completely but yet I still have an inch or two before full stuff, I

> guess relocating the upper shock mount would cure this.

> Again, thanks for the reply.

Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 12:06:18 -0500

From: "Lawson, Chris" <CLawson@comdial.com>

Subject: RE: Brake Lines

>Rather than moving your front mounts,just turn the leafs end for

end,if

>yours have any centerpin offset.

I'l Check on lunch break

>Mine are installed in the stock jeep position.My shackle is at the

stock

>hanger end,my hanger is at the springs stock shackle end.

Same here.

>I kept the jeep two piece rubber bushing(Jeep shackle end)for my

hanger

>end,and used a Energy poly bushing at the other end with 3/4"

bolts.I

>had to srew the bolts into the bushing with my impact.

>Is this what you did?

Used some Landcruiser poly bushings from LCC and a 3/4" bolt.....no

impact....grease...sore arm....beer;)

>Darren

Chris

Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 17:30:52 -0700

From: sam campbell <SAMINWY@prodigy.net>

Subject: Re: wrangler springs

how much lift are you getting from stock wrangler springs? are the

springs from the 6 cyl jeeps a little heavier?(i run a V8, so i have a

little more wieght to hold up)

thanks in advance...

sam

Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 19:18:56 -0500

From: "Lawson, Chris" <CLawson@comdial.com>

Subject: RE: wrangler springs

I'm gaining about 2" of lift now, hopefully it will increase a small amount

with the addition of an extra leaf from the rear pack. Let you know next

week.

I guess if you want to run the same leafs with the added weight, add a leafs

for wranglers are very cheap and should counter-act the weight well.

Although it may affect the down travel some. What says the list?

Chris Lawson

TLCA 7792

85' stan cab

> -----Original Message-----

> From: sam campbell [SMTP:SAMINWY@prodigy.net]

> Sent: Tuesday, January 19, 1999 7:31 PM

> To: toy4x4@tlca.org

> Subject: Re: wrangler springs

> how much lift are you getting from stock wrangler springs? are the

> springs from the 6 cyl jeeps a little heavier?(i run a V8, so i have a

> little more wieght to hold up)

> thanks in advance...

> sam

Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 23:32:14 -0700

From: "David Eggleston" <toy283@mho.net>

Subject: Re: 84 front spring sag

>The springs on my 84 4x4 are original (167K miles). The front springs are

>curved down over the axle. The springs of all of the pre-IFS trucks I see

look

>the same. Although I have owned this truck since it was new, I can't

remember

>what the springs looked like long ago. If overarching (?) is not normal,

>having the springs re-arched cost effective and long-lasting? I know I

could do

>new 2" or 3" lift springs and shocks for about $500, but I really don't

want to

>raise the truck. I can't afford new OEM springs (about $800?).

>I need adult supervision, and any advice would be appreciated. TIA.

>Mike Stano

That is normal. From the factory, solid axle Toyotas have negative arch

front springs. Over time this negative arch may increase of course.

Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 10:15:57 -0700

From: "C & S Learning"

Subject: Re: Wrangler front springs

>I have read several posts about using Jeep Wrangler springs on the front of

>straight axle Toyotas. I was wondering if anyone has more info on this

>swap. Do you use the front or rear springs from the Wrangler? Do you use

>just a few leaves added to the Toyota leaves? What combination gives best

>street ride? Best articulation? Best of both? Does it require any other

>modifications, i.e. redrilling the spring pin hole, etc...

I used the rear springs from a YJ, 5 leafs. Because I have the Chevy 4.3lt

I added an additional full length leaf from my old pack to the YJ pack.

Just to help with the extra weight. I think I actually lost about 1.5- 2"

of lift. Quite a bit but I can still run 33's without out a problem. The

springs sit pretty much flat with my setup. I will be looking to modify

that in the near future. Aparently if you have the 4cyl motor you shouldn't

have any weight problem and you should gain about 2" of lift.

As for Ubolts, I'm not sure exactly what I used, I have tones kicking

around. I beleive the stock ones will work. The YJ leafs are only max.

1/8" wider than the stock Toy, if that. I use the stock YJ spring pins, so

far so good.

>I have an '85 shortbed with stock springs and 2" shackle lift. I am

>thinking about building my own front springs on a budget, and I believe I

>can find some stock wrangler springs for cheap. I ultimately want 2" of

>lift and a nice smooth street ride. I am open to suggestions.

The YJ's would be the way to go. And if you know anyone at a 4wheel drive

shop they'll probably just give them to ya. I know the guys I deal with just

toss the old ones in the scrap bin.

Colin

Date: Sat, 14 Jun 1997 15:00:25

From: Charles

Subject: Spring Packs

To: toy4x4@tlca.org

Here's a little food for thought:

How about adapting a spring from a spring under vehicle

(Jeep Wrangler) for use on 79-85 toys? Now stay with me for a second!

springs for these vehicles have to have more arch for the same lift.

You can also find springs for wranglers that are much softer than most

aftermarket springs for toys.

Black Diamond makes a spring that is a 3.5 inch lift for 86-95 wranglers

and is rated at 185lb per inch. with an unloaded eye-to-eye length of 42.5"

this is about 1"+- less than the eye-to-eye length of stock front springs

for 79-85 toys. because of the spring over application we would use it for

I guestimate it at about 5.5" of lift for our use. Now for the down side.

I believe a track bar would also be required. In addition, the spring is

also 1/4" wider than stock toy springs so the spring hangar and shackle

would have to be modified. A friend of mine has a CJ7 (2" wide springs are

stock) with wrangler springs. He modified his spring perchs by adding more

material to the sides to accomodate the wider springs.

I called Rocky Mountain Off Road about there

"19 inch" articulation they said there spring rate is approx 180Lb per

inch...

Just an idea ;)

PowerTrax

is supposed to be issuing a version of their NoSlip differential to fit current Toyota

trucks this year. the last correspondence I had with them projected sometime around April, but

every time I contact them, the date gets pushed back. The NoSlip is kind of a limited slip/locker

hybrid.

: Ron

Make no bones about it, the No-Slip is not a limited slip/locker hybrid. It is a fully locking

differential. Basically, all it is is a Lock-Right that uses an active spacer to line up the gear teeth

before they mesh. When the teeth do mesh, the diff is locked just as strong as with a Lock-Right.

The active spacer eliminates the click-click-click-BANG that the Lock-Right has when the teeth

slide over each other before engaging. So since the teeth are no longer a wear surface, the unit

should last a lot longer. Basically, all the No-Slip is is a Lock-Right with synchromesh. Pretty simple

really.

Now the Detroit Gearless would properly be classified as a limited slip/locker hybrid. It uses clutch

disks instead of teeth to distribute torque. The theory behind it is that the disks lock the diff tighter

than any limited slip through the use of Detroit's Tunkel-V crosspin.

My plan is No-Slip in the rear and Gearless up front. It seems that's the way the manufacturers are

thinking too since the No-Slip is coming out for the Toyota 8" first and the Gearless is coming out for

the Toyota 7 1/2" first. I can't wait!!!

Toyota Gears

I have been told by a reliable shop source to steer clear of Motive

gears.....which are generally the cheapest here.

I would rank Richmonds on top though they are usually most expensive.

My shop source told me the Genuine and Precision are both good sets.

When I did me rear ARB about a year ago I used Genuine gears.

I know of no one in my circle of wheelin' freinds that has broken any

Toy gears......though the highest anybody is running is 4.88.

Jay Kopycinski '85 Toylet (ROKTOY)

> I have been told by a reliable shop source to steer clear of Motive

> gears.....which are generally the cheapest here.

For what its worth, I have been running a set of Motives in the rear of my Toy

for 2 years without a problem. The set before then were from Precision, and I

lost 3 pinion teeth driving home from work one day. Thay only lasted a little

over a year. Bu the way, both sets are 4.88's.

Brake Lines

Date: Wed, 17 Feb 1999 21:07:55 -0500

From: Ed.Wong@astrapharmaceuticals.com

Subject: Earl's Brake Line Adapters

Well, this issue was raised a few digests ago, and I got motiviated

and dug out the old Earl's catalogs.

There are two ways to go about doing a StainlessSteel brake line conversion

1 - the fast way

2 - the expensive / elegant way

The fast way is to get adaptors to convert the "Inverted Flare" fittings

on the brake hard lines to an "AN -3" male fitting and then use an

"AN -3" sized hose (female ends) of the proper length for the actual line.

Its the fast way because "AN -3" lines are stocked in various lenghts

and if you cant get them from Earls, well any hydrulics supply house

should be able to make something up right quick.

Its "in-elegant" because there are now an extra set of threads that

can loosen/leak. Not that it happens much - but with brakes...

well its yer butt.

The elegant way is to get a custom hose made up with the "proper"

Toyota ends. Its just more $$ than the above (at least at the Servi-shop

prices).

OK - lets start with the elegant.

What you need are the "female hose ends" and then

ya need to know how long the assembly is.

The Hose ends are Earl's part number 641093

Thats for a Stainless Steel AN -3 hose end with a Female

10mmx1 convex (Toyota) end.

As far as lenght - thats up to you and yer trusty ruler.

If ya gets the catlog - its a mite confusing as there are several

types of 10mmx1 ends - and I dunno what the difference is

between a Toyota Version and a Honda version.

So - dont ask me why there are three types of hose ends

that have female 10mmx1 ends, but only one adapter.

I never used the adapter (ask Jay - I think he did) so

I wont comment on the proper part number for that.

Call Earls as they are *real* helpful on the phone.

Earls can be contacted at the Servi shop:

Earl's Servi-Shop #3

302 Gasoline Alley

Indianapolis, Indiana 46222

(317) 241-0318

Its off and old catalog - I dunno if the area code is still the same.

And yes - its at the race track - where else!

Ewong

I got mine overnight from Performance Products. They are a Russell brand

and say that they are legal in all 50 states. They do not have a spring

on the ends but a Teflon sleeve that acts as a strain relief. It is the

same idea as a spring. They are 3-3.5" longer than stock.

HTH,

Bud

Earl's makes the set that has the "c" bracket and the spring on them.

Claim they passed a DOT "whip" test that prevents something from happening

that unsupported lines don't prevent. Usually earl's maks some of the

best stuff , but stay away from those speed-bleeders...they're junk!

Either they leak or the one-way valve won't!

Date: Thu, 11 Mar 1999 11:47:24 -0500

From: "Ken Flesher" <ken.flesher@unh.edu>

Subject: SS brake lines - update

Did some additional investigating on these SS brake lines yesterday. Wish I

had known about this DOT thing before I bought the Downey's. Hopefully this

will help someone...

Russell Performance appears to have the best setup for brake lines, their

website is actually very informative, and their techs are very helpful too.

They do sell direct, but you end up paying full list price, so you're much

better off calling them if you have questions, then ask them for the closest

place to buy them, as they also recommend this.

Apparently the DOT certification issue involves a "whip test", where the

brake line is clamped in a jig at one fitting end, then whipped back and

forth for a period of time. The SS lines will fray at the crimp point, so

suppliers have solved this by placing a strain relief at the fitting. Some

use springs, Russell uses a length of Teflon on the outside of the hose.

In then end, I decided to keep the Downey's and make my own strain relief

with some clear tubing and zip ties. I found the best price on the Russell

kits at Summit Racing, $71.99 for the set (all 3 hoses plus washers). Note

that their kit #9551 is sized for up to a 4" lift, but they told me that you

can request stock lengths if you have no intention of adding a lift. PP

sells the same kit for $97.

I also really like the Russell SpeedBleeders, and was able to find a local

speed shop that could get them for me, for $13 a pair.

- -KLF

Locking Differentials

I have said it before, and I will say it again :) The EZ locker and lockrite

are virtually identical. The cheapest EZ locker I have found ANYWHERE is from

Leon Rosser Jeep 1-888-348-2037

www.thinkjeep.com

They are selling them for $188 plus shipping. I should know, I bought one

from them yesterday.

David

DRM033@aol.com

Fuel Tanks

I recently got a 1985 4x4 longbed have been disappointed with the

range on the 17 gal. tank. My previous truck, (unreliable American brand)

had two tanks and I got used to about a 500 mile range. I went to Aero

Tanks Co. in Corona, Ca. and had them fabricate a larger tank. They made a

16 ga. steel tank of odd shape with more room above the drive shaft and

added an extra 16 ga. bottom for a skid plate. It mates up to the standard

filler cap. The depth of the tank remained the same so I did not loose any

ground clearance and the original pump and sending unit was installed in the

new tank. Capacity of the new tank is about 30 gal. and the installation

looks good and sturdy.

I did some moderate 4-wheeling in Death Valley recently and have

not had any problems with the new tank. With this setup the gauge stays on

full for about 350 miles till it finally comes off the peg then it goes down

in the usual manner for the last 15 gallons or so. I am very satisfied with

this new tank so far, now all I need is a larger bladder to equal the range

of the truck!

The fellow at Aero says that in a short bed Toyota then can usually

fit about a 26 gal. tank. I arrived there at 8:00AM and was out the door by

3:30PM minus $515.00 for the work. They make all types of special fuel

tanks for trucks and RV's and I can recommend them.

Aero Tanks

1780 Pomona Road

Corona, CA 91720

(800) 783-4826 FAX: (909) 737-8226

Richard Carey

email: richard@nosc.mil

Timing Chain Guide

Supplier:

DOA Racing Engines

6013 Premiere Avenue

Lakewood, CA 90712

(562) 867-6336

Price: $ 65.00 guides

alone, or $201 including

a full timing kit

Vehicle: 1987 4Runner,

22RE Engine

Before the early 1980's,

Toyota 20R and 22R

engines had a

bulletproof,

over-engineered timing

chain system. This

included a heavy-duty

double-row timing chain

damped by a thick layer

of rubber on a steel backbone.

Around the 1984 model year, presumably to cut costs and

squeeze a little more power from the mill, Toyota switched

to a single-row timing chain and hard plastic chain guides.

These guides frequently break and pieces of them fall into

the oil pan. Aftermarket replacement chain guides have until

now followed the plastic Toyota design, but have an even

worse reputation for breaking.

Once the guides break, the chain begins slapping against the

timing chain cover, resulting in the all-too-familiar rattly

"diesel" sound you hear from many older Toyota 22R and

22RE engines. At this point, you're living on borrowed time.

Uncorrected, one of two really bad things might occur: The

first is that it will actually eat through the timing chain cover

(typically on the driver's side) and into a cooling passage.

(Click the photo above where you can see where the chain

was digging into the cover. Fortunately, the guides is this

engine were replaced before massive damage was done.)

Suddenly you get a gallon or so of coolant into your oil,

which can trash bearings and cause all other types of havoc

within, possibly destroying the motor. The other eventuality

is that before the timing chain manages to chew through the

timing cover, the timing chain gets 'sharpened' by the

rubbing, and eats into the tensioner. Eventually it cuts deep

into the tensioner, binds, and breaks. The 22R and 22RE

are intereference engines, meaning the valves (when open)

take up the same space that the pistons do at TDC. With

timing gone, the pistons clobber the valves. Say farewell to

the engine! Chain failures of this type are virtually always

preceeded by a failure of the guides.

Until now, those with single-row timing chains wanting a

more reliable timing chain setup had to retrofit a timing

cover, oil pump, water pump, and oil pump drive spline

from an early 20R/22R engine, along with a timing kit for the

earlier motor. While these are all bolt-on parts, collectively

they represent a hefty investment. What was really needed

was some tougher chain guides.

DOA Racing Engines of Lakewood, CA, has introduced a

solution. They now offer tough metal-backed timing chain

guides for single-row 22R and 22RE engines.

My engine had been making the rattly noises recently, after

only 25,000 miles on the current timing set. I popped the

valve cover and peered into the timing cover and was

astonished at what I saw - both the driver's and

passenger's-side chain guides were broken. The driver's

side one was barely there at all - the bolts that hold it to the

block were holding only a tiny piece of the plastic flange

used to mount the plastic guides. The bearing surfaces of the

guides themselves had long taken the dive into the oil pan.

Fortunately, I caught this problem before the cooling system

was breached, saving myself a much more expensive repair

bill. So I called up Tim Jenkins of DOA Racing Engines and

asked his opinion. He explained this was very common and

was a weakness in the design of the plastic guides. So after

a long conversation, I ordered a full timing kit from DOA,

including the new guides.

My first reaction when opening the package was "Wow, I

won't ever be fishing these guides out of my oil pan." The

metal is impressively thick along the entire length of the

guides, to which is bonded a generous amount of hard

rubber. The rest of the components in the kit were quality

Japanese-made Sealed Power/Federal Mogul parts. In

addition to the guides, the complete $201 kit includes the

sprockets, chain, tensioner, front crank seal, and timing

chain cover gaskets.

Installation is no different than any other timing chain job. Its

an involved process that can take many hours. For more

information on the procedures, check the Toyota 4x4

Mailing List Archives, or in particular, Barney's Timing

Chain page where timing chain replacement discussions from

the list have been posted.

Performance

Replacement of the guides has certainly cured my engine of

the rattling noises! Timing is much easier to set too - before I

replaced the guides, the timing marks would jump around

under a timing light. Now the marks are aligning perfectly.

With only a few thousand miles on the set, I can't speak to

their ultimate longevity, but since the construction is so much

stronger than any other available single-row guides, I am

confident they will outlast the rest of the engine. DOA is so

sure of it that they offer a guarantee for the life of your

motor.

Conclusions:

This is a no-brainer - if you are rebuilding, due for a new

timing chain, or your existing guides have broken, I

wholeheartedly recommend using these guides to improve

your engine's reliability.

CB Radio

Date: Wed, 31 Mar 1999 20:55:45 -0800

From: "J.R. Juiliano" <jrsmail@worldnet.att.net>

Subject: RE: CB's

I don't really know what you are planning on using this particular CB for,

but if you plan on keeping it in the truck for road trips and/or

emergencies, I would get something more permanent. I would also spend the

money to get a good radio AND a good antenna. Buying a really good radio

is useless without a good magnet- or hard-mount antenna.

For the radio, I recommend either the Cobra 148GTL or Uniden Grant XL.

Same radio part for part aside from the face plate. The other one to

check on is the Uniden 122XL, if they still make them. All have AM/SSB in

them. And of course (by law), you get 4 watts in A.M. and 10-12 watts in

single side-band.

For an antenna, either hard-mount or magnetic-mount, I would go with the

Wilson 1000 or the K40. Both are good antennas. The K40 should be a

little cheaper in $$.

Oh, and I personally think the weather channel idea on a CB radio is

useless... But then again, I used to have a Uniden Bearcat scanner in my

truck too!

Hope that helps.

Hubs

The first common 4wd trucks were military jeeps. These were use mostly

on dirt roads originally and long before anyone was worried about gas

mileage. They use a hub plate that is very similar to what is used on

ADD equipped toys today. Each jeep was sold with two sets of front

plates. If you wanted 2wd you needed to unbolt the hollow plates and

bolt on the 4wd plates. Not too much work but it still required you to

get a wrench out and wash your hands when done.

Along came a car dealer named Warn, he was selling Jeeps to the public

and thought it would be nice to build a set of hubs that you just twist

to unlock. It would be much easier to change from 2wd to 4wd and back.

So he built lockout hubs for the Jeeps he sold.

For quite some time the only hubs you could buy were after market hubs

from Warn. Years later Jeep started building there own hubs but these

were weak compared to the Warn hubs so the reputation for Warn having

the best hub continued. I think Warn at one point even sold hubs to Jeep

for installation at the factory.

So on a Jeep the Warn hub may very well be the best you can get.

Here is what I have experienced so far with toyota type hubs.

The worst hubs "ever sold by anyone" award goes to the Toyota automatic

hub. This thing was designed to fail at the first sight of dirt.

Warn hubs for Toyota:

Warn has made 4 different versions of the it's hub for Toyotas. The

first design was said to be the best but only limited numbers were made

before the molds broke. These were made from good steel and worked well

for many years. These do not have the pot metal housing common today.

This is the best hub Warn ever made for Toyotas.

Next Warn sold a modified Jeep hub for use with Toyotas. I put a set on

my 87 IFS 4Runner. It came with 3 sets of super think gaskets for each

side, cool "spares" were my thought and I bolted them on using one

gasket each side. No mention of the extra gaskets were found in install

manual. It turns out that these modified jeep hubs must be installed

with all three gaskets or damage to the hub will result, and it did.

Just bolting them on broke the hubs, I sent them back and got new ones

and installed them using all three gaskets, boy did they look funny and

they leaked water bad.

Later Warn again started making Toyota spific hubs and I installed a set

on my 93 4Runner After having them for about 2 years they were getting

loose and causing excess play in the drive line. Also the cheep pot

metal they were made from was cracking and breaking up from rock damage.

Warn changed the design again but still makes hubs that stick out and

makes them from cheep pot metal. These are not likely to last when used

on extreme rocky trails. I removed these hubs along with the IFS

suspension when I swapped in the solid axle.

The solid axle came with old Aisin hubs. It looks like they are the same

ones the factory bolted onto the axle in 1985. I took them apart and

found no significant wear on the internal gears. I cleaned them and

bolted them back onto the axle. They have worked great. They don't stick

out as far as the Warn hubs and are less likely to get damaged on the

trail. They are smaller over-all but made from better steel.

I now plan to stick with Aisin hubs.

Mike if he take off the Aisin hubs, buy them!

- --

Chris Geiger's Rock Runner

Fuel Tank

Date: Sun, 20 Jun 1999 16:36:42 EST

From: james stevenson <j_s_stevenson@hotmail.com>

Subject: Fuel Tanks

>Here's a product I would like to see on the market: A larger (25+

>gal) fuel tank that sits between the frame rails where the spare

>goes on a 1st gen truck or 'runner.

It is available , I'm just not sure if anyone is exporting them to the US.

ARB sell the "Long Ranger" brand tanks amde by Out Of Town 4WD here in OZ.

TJM I think sell Brown Davis, another very good brand. OOT4wd make a 134L

(30Gal) replacement tank, that does not loose ground clearance. They also

make a 50L (11gal) Aux tank that goes above the spare. This tank does not

lower the spare. You can also get them built to order here. For example I

have 2 of the replacement tanks one is built for mounting on the opposite

side to normal, so I have a tank either side of the drive shaft. I also had

the top extended 3in to go with the body lift. The Aux tank can also be made

to replace the spare. This takes it to around 200L (44Gal). My rear tank is

a combined Fuel and Water tank with 2 battery carriers.

James Stevenson (TonkaTuf) ICQ 19130256

Date: Sun, 20 Jun 1999 16:39:10 EST

From: james stevenson <j_s_stevenson@hotmail.com>

Subject: Fuel Tanks

I fogot to put on my last mesaage that if anywants to see a pic they are in

the ARB Red Cat on my web site. www.dasch.tzo.net/tonkatuf/ You will find

the ARB Red and Silver Cats plus the ARB price list in $Aud (OZ)

James Stevenson (TonkaTuf) ICQ 19130256

LockRight

From: "Steven Kiger" <s&akiger@twave.net>

Subject: Lock-right troubles

The rear Lock-right in my 87 4runner is giving trouble again. It has around

1000 miles and the first one only made it around 3000 miles. The symptoms

on this one are the same as the first. After you completely straighten up

from a curve, and and go maybe 20-70 yards, it will ussually pop 1-3 times.

It is not a "buck" but a LOUD jerk that you can FEEL. It feels like it

slips. I couple of different people that have lock-rights have ridden in

it, and on the trail people that know locker characteristics comment on it.

The people that have ridden in it say that there's does that very very

seldom. On the trail it pops under medium pressure, the same type of pop as

described earlier. I have dissasembled it, and it has marks from wear, but

it does not look bad. I checked the clearances in the carrier and they are

to spec. The rear-end was checked/done by a professional before it was put

in. Back-lash is at .010, and it has a good pattern. Any suggestions would

be appreciated. It has gotten progressively worse since it was installed.

Steve Kiger in NC

s&akiger@twave.net

87 4runner, 22re, 5-speed, 5.29's, lock-rights, 33's, 3" susp. lift, solid

axle, custom rear bumper.

Subject: Re: Lock-right troubles

s&akiger@twave.net writes:

>The rear Lock-right in my 87 4runner is giving trouble again.

If this is happening to the second locker you have put in, I would look

somewhere besides the locker as the problem. My first guess would be that

the carrier is worn, but it could be a bent axle shaft or housing throwing

things off. If it is just he carrier, I have one stuffed somewhere in the

garage you can have.

David

DRM033@aol.com

From: Chris Geiger <cgeiger@gte.net>

Subject: Re: Lock-right troubles

A friend of mine with a Samurai has had a similar problem. The first

Lock Right went out in less than a year with as many and 10 loud bangs

in a row after a turn. He replaced the locker but after only a few miles

it started doing it again. The guy removed the 3rd member and put a

stock one in just so he could drive it.

> The rear Lock-right in my 87 4runner is giving trouble again.

I think Lockrights are getting a bad rap. My Lockright's have performed

flawlessly, and my street driving only had to be slightly modified. I don't

think I've been any luckier than anyone else.

Eric Zite

eze_money@msn.com

From: Thom Singer <cbovee@dock.net>

Subject: Re: Lock-right troubles

Funny, I was just talking to my friend with a Samurai (with a Toyota

4AGE in it) that has Lock-Rites in both axles about them today. What

he's learned is that of the two styles available for the Sami's, you

want the style that retains the stock side gears. Apparently the other

style is very sensitive to too much clearance in the diff case.

PetroWorks has quit selling the bad style altogether. This is the one

that spits, bangs, clatters, clunks and dies on you.

- --

ntsqd@mail.csuchico.edu

From: Brandon Miller <brandon@pirate4x4.com>

Subject: Re: Lock-right troubles

I think they are excellent BUT I do thing they wear out after a couple years of

hard use. I still run em front and rear because of the cost but if they were

even close to the same cost there would be NO QUESTION detroits are the way to

go...

sorry to rain on your fire here, but ALL LockRites replace spider and side

gears in the open diff setup.

There may be some truth that there are two different styles, one being good

and the other being bad, but its not due to the stock side gears being

retained.

> wrong, mine didn't...

> (v6)

whaddaya mean your's didn't?

Care to explain? I have lock rights front and rear in my Taco, I have

installed them front and rear in an old Blazer with Dana axles, my buddy has

one in his 2wd F150.

so that's a total of 7 different axles that replaced ALL gears except the

ring and pinion.

The only thing I can think of is that there are axles that have more than 2

side gears, is that a possibility?

From: Brandon Miller <brandon@pirate4x4.com>

Subject: Re: Lock-right troubles

I couldn't believe it either, there were like 4 parts in the box, the 2 inside

gears and a few small parts. I have put about 8 into toyotas but never a v6 so

I was shocked but it works that is all I know. It uses 2 of the stock gears.

steve wrote:

>The rear Lock-right in my 87 4runner is giving trouble again. It has

around

>1000 miles and the first one only made it around 3000 miles. The symptoms

>on this one are the same as the first. After you completely straighten up

>from a curve, and and go maybe 20-70 yards, it will ussually pop 1-3 times.

>It is not a "buck" but a LOUD jerk that you can FEEL. It feels like it

>slips. I couple of different people that have lock-rights have ridden in

>it, and on the trail people that know locker characteristics comment on it.

>The people that have ridden in it say that there's does that very very

>seldom. On the trail it pops under medium pressure, the same type of pop

>described earlier. I have dissasembled it, and it has marks from wear, but

>it does not look bad. I checked the clearances in the carrier and they are

>to spec. The rear-end was checked/done by a professional before it was put

>in. Back-lash is at .010, and it has a good pattern. Any suggestions

would

>be appreciated. It has gotten progressively worse since it was installed.

>Steve Kiger in NC

The carrier is withen spec. as far as the instructions are concerned. There

should be between .005-.020 between the cross-pin and the spacer in the

lock-right. There is .016-.017. There seems to be nothing wrong with the

housing or axle shaft. The tires are the same size, plus I have rotated

them to be sure. It am starting to believ that it is junk, because on

closer inspection I see considerable amounts of wear on the edge of the

teeth. I will call the manufacturer tomorrow and see... in the meantime, I

am getting pretty good at taking this thing in and out!!

>s&akiger@twave.net

>87 4runner, 22re, 5-speed, 5.29's, lock-rights, 33's, 3" susp. lift, solid

>axle, custom rear bumper.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Jul 1999 15:55:53 EDT

From: DRM033@AOL.COM

Subject: Re: Lock-right troubles

Some lock rights do not replace all the spider gears. I don't know how, or

why, but call them & they will comfirm this. I have heard some Toy v6

applicaitons do this, as do Samurai applications.

David

DRM033@aol.com

> The tires are the same size, plus I have rotated

> them to be sure. It am starting to believ that it is junk, because on

> closer inspection I see considerable amounts of wear on the edge of the

> teeth.

About the wear on the teeth... where is it wearing? If it is wearing on one

spot on one of the side gears (connected to the axle shaft) I would look at

that shaft/housing for being bent/damaged.

Also, you probably already checked this, but is the tire preasure the same in

the rear tires? A little bit off makes a big difference...

David

DRM033@aol.com

From: Thom Singer <cbovee@dock.net>

Subject: Re: Lock-right troubles

Apparently the Sami diffs are the only ones (that I know of, anyway)

where you have a choice btwn versions. One that replaces the side gears

( "Coupler" style) with Lock-Rite parts and a version that uses the

stock side gears (non-"Coupler" style). For some diffs only one version

is available, all those remaining use the other style.

Brandon Miller wrote:

> wrong, mine didn't...

> (v6)

> steve wrote:

> > sorry to rain on your fire here, but ALL LockRites replace spider and side

> > gears in the open diff setup.

Turbo Trans

Subject: Turbo Tranny

Jeff wrote,

>Yes, first gear in the turbo trannies is lower, to >compensate for turbo

>lag. Don't know the gear ratio for first off hand, but >it should be on

>the net somewhere.

It is 4.31 compared to 3.93 for the regular tranny.

2nd: 2.33

3rd: 1.44

4th:1.0

5th:.85

Reverse:4.22

>Only physical difference that I'm aware of is a >different number of

>splines in the transmission input shaft. IO think the >turbo tranny has a

>23 spline shaft, while the regular 22R/RE trannies >have 22 spline shafts.

It has much larger bearings.

>Necessitates a clutch disc specific to the turbo tranny.

Used my original clutch from my 90 4-Runner tranny when mine was put in. If

you can find one for cheap, by all means buy it they are hard to find!

Dan Smith

From: Jeff Moskovitz <jeff_moskovitz@FILEMAKER.COM>

Subject: Re: Turbo transmission

Yes, first gear in the turbo trannies is lower, to compensate for turbo

lag. Don't know the gear ratio for first off hand, but it should be on

the net somewhere.

Only physical difference that I'm aware of is a different number of

splines in the transmission input shaft. IO think the turbo tranny has a

23 spline shaft, while the regular 22R/RE trannies have 22 spline shafts.

Necessitates a clutch disc specific to the turbo tranny (not sure about

the PP and TOB).

I've heard that these trannies are good to something like 385 hp --

really beefy, much stronger than the their 22R/RE counterparts.

Someone speak up if my facts are wrong.

Jeff

On 7/30/99 1:03 PM, DRM033@aol.com said:

>How about the first gear - it is lower?

>I guess I should buy the really cheap one I just saw in the local paper, huh?

>David

>DRM033@aol.com

From: Jeff Moskovitz <jeff_moskovitz@FILEMAKER.COM>

Subject: Re: Turbo transmission

The 22RTE and the 22R/RE share the same block, and AFAIK the same Xfer

case, so I don't see why one of these trannies wouldn't bolt up. Not sure

about the output shaft using a different slip yoke, though -- it might.

If you can get one of these things cheap, I'd say go for it. They are as

good a 4 cylinder truck tranny as Toyota has ever made.

Jeff

On 7/30/99 1:48 PM, DRM033@aol.com said:

>jeff_moskovitz@FILEMAKER.COM writes:

>> Only physical difference that I'm aware of is a different number of

>> splines in the transmission input shaft. IO think the turbo tranny has a

>> 23 spline shaft, while the regular 22R/RE trannies have 22 spline shafts.

>> Necessitates a clutch disc specific to the turbo tranny (not sure about

>> the PP and TOB).

>So I would have to source some parts for that end, but my 4 cyl. Marlin

>Crawler double case will still bolt up? Getting more interesting by the

>minute :)

>David

From: Agustinus Gunawan <aharjadi@ntplx.net>

Subject: RE: Turbo transmission

The clutch is different, it's about 1/2 in larger. The disk is the same as

the V6 but the Pressure plate is completely different. The transfer case is

also different I think (23 versus 21 spine) but I am not sure about this.

The total length might be different???? My driveshaft is 45 inch flange to

flange with about 3 in of lift and use 10 mm bolt. Its bigger flange than

the earlier 22R equipped model but might be the same as yours.

The first gear supposed to be 4.3:1 compared to the stock 22RE which is

3.93. this is needed since the low end torque of the turbo is lower and

also to help the turbo lag. However I found with this transmission I often

run out of RPM in fist gear and the wide ratio does not help acceleration

either. much better for wheeling though.

The best bet is to call Marlin. He knows everything off hand.

Augie

87 turbo, 5 sp, 33x9.50 BFG MT

Subject: Re: Turbo transmission

At 04:48 PM 7/30/99 EDT, you wrote:

>jeff_moskovitz@FILEMAKER.COM writes:

>> Only physical difference that I'm aware of is a different number of

>> splines in the transmission input shaft. IO think the turbo tranny has a

>> 23 spline shaft, while the regular 22R/RE trannies have 22 spline shafts.

>> Necessitates a clutch disc specific to the turbo tranny (not sure about

>> the PP and TOB).

The Turbo clutch disc shares the same input shaft spline count as the

non-Turbos. The disc and p.plate are turbo specific though as they are

stronger parts. They will interchange with non-turbo engines and

transmissions though. Consider it a factory upgrade to a HD clutch.

>So I would have to source some parts for that end, but my 4 cyl. Marlin

>Crawler double case will still bolt up? Getting more interesting by the

>minute :)

David, you will have to upgrade the input shaft of the front crawler box

(and it is recommended to do the rear too) to the 23-spline Turbo input

shaft. You'll need the Turbo input/output coupler too. You can source these

parts through either Marlin or All Pro.

The inputs are the same, it's the output shafts that are different.

Yup, it's a really neat swap. I think the first gear ratio is 4.31 for the

Turbos, 3.93 on non-turbo applications. The R151 Turbo tranny is probably

one of the best transmissions made by Toyota. It is very similar in design

and construction of the MKIII Supra Turbo transmission. If the price is

right, go for it!

Come to think of it, if you find two, let me know :-)

Around here, they fetch about $900...

Good luck!

- --

Jim Brink, Toyota/ASE Certified Technician - Manhattan Beach, CA

Subject: Re: Turbo transmission

The output is also diferent. I ordered two dual cases from Marlin last year,

one for a 87 EFI, and one for a 87 EFI Turbo. They had a diferent spline

count, but Marlin may have the part you need. Maybe you will get lucky and

the case will be with it. If not I will buy it from you,. The Turbo truck is

running 4.88 gears, and I am running 5.29. The turbo has a final ratio of

109.** ,And I got 108.** and its killing me!

Paul Elbisser Pres. Rice on the Rocks TLCA of Cincinnati Ohio

- ----- Original Message -----

Identification of Turbo Transmission

Turbo transmission has a rubber inspection plug about 1.5 to 2" dia on the bottom of the bell-housing

Oil Filter

Subject: re: oil filter sizes

Corey:

Because of the recent thread on oil filters, I stopped using Frams and

starting using AC Delco's PF2 on my 85 4Runner. It is a giant thing and

at first I thought it wouldn't fit, but it does. You may want to try

one.

FYI,

Allan Davis

Crawler Gears

From: "Thom Singer" <ntsqd@mail.csuchico.edu>

Subject: Re: Crawler Talk (Long)

I looked this up just out of curiosity. I'm going to assume that

Marlin's castings are 356 T6 since that's what most of this type of part

is made out of. 356 T6 has a tensile strength of 33,000 psi. 6061, the

material of choice for most billet manufacturing, has a range of tensile

strengths depending on heat treat. In T6 condition it has a tensile

strength of 45,000 psi, however in the T4 condition tensile strength is

only 35,000 psi, and in -0- condition is only 18,000 psi. Poor design

can negate any strength advantage a material might have. I am not

bashing anyone's product or design, I am pointing out a design fact of

life.

Rolled metal has a grain very much like wood does. The grain runs down

the blank in the direction it was rolled. The grain tends to increase

strength in the rolled direction (due to cold working) and do nothing in

the perpendicular direction. In a billet fabrication those grain lines

are cut, possibly resulting in weak sections. Geometry of the part

relative to the grain can be the difference between a viable part and

junk.

A casting has a very amorphous grain structure. The only real flaw in

quality castings is that the grain size tends to be large, resulting in

a lower tensile strength. Heat treating can cure part of this downside

as can precise control of the casting conditions. If we really want a

strong part, we'll have to cast a rough sized blank, and then near

net-shape forge it.

My point is that assuming that just because one part is cast and another

is billet, that thinking the billet part is automatically stronger may

be an error. This type of thinking is the result of successful marketing

from the street rod world who want to sell you billet fanny floss. I am

not faulting Tim for his assumption, but his assumption is not always

correct.

I find it humorous that a lot of the so called 'billet' parts out there

are completely machined castings. Where's the billet in that ?

Hydraulic Winch

Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1999 23:25:56 +0200

From: "Marco Schotman" <toyotaro@zeelandnet.nl>

Subject: MileMarker-the facts

Finaly got a change to test my MileMarker dual speed 10.500 lbs mounted

inside the TJM T13. Ive used it on several trails but was not impressed.

Seems every time it wasnt pulling hard enough, it just stopped, limited by

the pressure relief valve on the pump.

I ran into a guy at work today who was hired to inspect our lifting

equipment, and he was kind enough to let me borrow his cable pull gauge, a $

7500 worth tool with build in sender and remote receiver with digital lcd

screen up to 20.000 kg (44.000 lbs) pull forse.

So I took Toyotaro to a ship embankment to hook it up between some solid

anchor points and start winching.

Here are my test results in low gear, 1st layer 2300 kg ( 5060 lbs), 2nd

layer 2000 kg (4400 lbs), 3rd layer 1500 kg (3300 lbs)

High gear, 1 layer 500 kg (1100 lbs), 2nd layer 350 kg (770 lbs), 3rd layer

270 kg (590 lbs)

Those numbers are nice for catching a big fish but not for winching out of

the mud!

Problem is that the stock Toyota steering pump cant push enough juice

arround and pressure is way to low to get the 10.500 lbs that Milemarker

promises. Those winches are rated at 100 bar / 15 lpm (1500 psi / 4 gpm) and

the Toyota pump stops at 65 bar (930 psi), dont know the flowrate.

What should I do to get the 10.500 line pull? Swap in a Chev pump or

whatever that will reach 1500 psi? Dont know.......I dont think the seals in

the steeringbox can hold the increased pressure.

Add a second heavy steeringpump only to feed the MileMarker and leave the

Toy steering system as is?

Thoughts, suggestions.......?

Marco Schotman, the Netherlands.

-Toyotaro- Fahrvergnügen?

'89 4x4 crewcab pickup, 2.4 turbo diesel

many mods, enough lift, 35x14.5 Mickey's

http://people.zeelandnet.nl/schotman

Parts Evaluation

Old Man EMU

Spark Plug Mods.

Jeep Springs

PowerTrax

Toyota Gears

Brake Lines

Locking Differentials

Fuel Tanks

Timing Chain Guide

CB Radio

Hubs

Fuel Tank

LockRight

Turbo Trans

Identification of Turbo Transmission

Oil Filter

Crawler Gears

Hydraulic Winch

How to Choose a Real Parts Store

GPS

Parts Microfiche, Manuals

Rope for Winch