Suspension / Steering

Subject: Spring removal

 

I have found the 24TPI "sawzall" brand blades will go though the

bolt like "butter".

Also - the teeth are cut so that the sawzall is "pulled" into

the bolt. Makes cutting real easy.

 

I too found it best to make two cuts. I now cut on the inside

of the hanger on both sides and then use a pry to spread the

hanger a tad.

 

Knuckle Bearing Replacement

 

Subject: Re: Steering knuckle Setup--shims

 

Byron wrote:

> Anybody have any details on how to set up the

> shims to give the correct preloads????

>

> I am not sure how to measure the preload and

> what it needs to be.

 

I think the conventional wisdom to use 0.040 shim thickness.  I found enougn

0.020 shims in the Toyota kit to put a pair under each metal spacer.  Seemed

to work fine on my '85, and made it *so* much smoother than when I put it

together w/ the factory spacer (it used no shims).

 

 

 

 

Subject: RE: knuckle bearings and seals

 

I just finished replacing all the seals and bearings in the front axle of

my 85 4runner, and here is what i found.  The knuckle seals are available

from the dealer as a kit for the whole axle (about $95). This does not

include the axle shaft oil seals inside the axle housing, which i would

recommend changing if you have the axle torn apart that much anyway.  These

seals are (should be) available at places like AutoZone.  (Thats where i

got mine, along with the wheel bearings.)  The knuckle bearings are

apparently only available through the dealer.  The toyota part number is

90366-17001-77  and they cost me $30 a piece (and you need 4 of them)  so

it gets expensive.  These bearings are an odd tapered roller bearing ( i

have one sitting on my desk, with pitted rollers). 

 

Note: I also switched to 4.88 R&P's and a locker in the rear, since the

axle shafts were out.  It is a lot of work to tear down for bearing/seal

replacement (especially the knuckle seals) so if you ever want to change

gears or add a locker, i would recommend to do it all at once.  My 4runner

was torn apart for about 2 weeks, mainly waiting on parts.

 

Justin

jkern@wvu.edu

 

 

 

Subject: re: knuckle bearings???????

 

Byron wrote:

>Hey guys

>Are the knuckle bearings made as a two piece setup?

>Is the inner and outer pieces separate?

 

The knuckle bearings are typical tapered roller bearings. There

is an inner race that is pressed into the knuckle (or pounded with

a brass punch) and the tapered bearing assy fits into it. This

provides the friction surface for the outer diameter of the

bearings.  The outer contact surface for the bearings (top of the

upper bearing and the bottom of the lower bearing) is machined into

the steering arm on the top, and the plug on the bottom. There are

also shafts which go inside the inner diameter of the bearings

machined into the arms and plugs.

 

When I got my driver's side apart, and saw the loose roller shafts

and cage, I wondered the same thing. When I bought my replacements

and looked at them, it was obvious mine had been destroyed when I

pulled the steering off. My steering arm shaft had frozen on the

inside of the bearing, and destroyed it when I forced it off.

______________________________________________________________

Barney McNamara

 

 

 

Just like a wheel bearing replacement, there are two slots in the seat for

the outter race in the knuckle.  I would recommend using a brass bar or at

least deburr the edge of the punch that you use.  I dumb a**ed and didn't do

either of these things and ended up with a nice row of punch marks on each

bearing seat.  Thank goodness for emery cloth!  The knuckle bearing caps

didn't require a SST, I just used a 12" 3/8 drive extension to gently

persuade the lower cap out.  It takes about three hands and some creative

language to hold everything in place when reassembling the knuckle, but it

can be done without any fancy tools.  Drain the diff before you start, and

leave the tie rod off 'till after you refill it.  And fill the knuckle up

full with the grease of your choice untill you can't possibly shove any more

goo in there.  best of luck on staying clean :-)

Knuckle Bearing Replacement & Wheel Bearings

Date: Thu, 20 Mar 1997 09:22:37 -0500

From: Ed.Wong@astramerck.com

Subject: Replacing front wheel bearings

To: "        -         (052)ej (a) animal.blarg.net"

 

Eric:

 

The first time its a bear - I took my time and it was an all day job

(uh - painting the brake dust shield and other parts did take up much of

that time)

 

Dont forget the brass bar for driving out the races.

 

What many dont know - is that bearings are "universal" to some extent.

As long as its a reputable suplier - they should be OK

(i.e. - dont bother with the dealer for "yota" bearings - they are all

the same)

 

Also go back and look up the "cone lock washer" stuff about getting the

manual hubs off.

 

I haven an 88/89 4Runner - which uses 86-88 type parts

Inner bearing

  race - 4T-JLM104910PK

  bearing - 4T-JLM104948PK

Outter bearing

  race - 4T-LM102910

  bearing - 4T-LM102948

 

Ive had good luck with Timken brand bearings.

 

Congrats on finishing *gradual* school

 

EWong

 

------------------------------

 

Date: Thu, 20 Mar 1997 10:53:59 -0600

From: Jack Alford

Subject: Replacing front wheel bearings

To: toy4x4@tlca.org

 

Eric Johnson  wrote:

 

>Well, I finally finished grad school (last night!), so I'm going to have

>some time to get to some projects on the 4runner.

 

Congrats !

 

>My most annoying current problem is a vibration in the front end that I'm

>80% sure is the left wheel bearings. I've never replaced or repacked the

>bearings myself before, how tough is this? (how many bananas? :) I think

>I've got all the necessary tools, including a spindle nut wrench, torque

>wrench, and the factory manual. I've got 140k on this bearing, I'll

>probably just replace it rather than repack it. Is there a brand or type of

>grease anyone recommends? What all do I need to do a complete job on one

>side? I assume theres an inner and outer race and bearing, and a seal or

>two. Anything else?

 

Tools you'll also need:

 - A large brass punch or 1/2"x1/2" piece of steel 4-5" long

 - A brass punch to drive the races out.

 

This is about a 1.5-2 banana job .... Opposable thumbs only, no need

to communicate abstract ideas to other Shade Tree Howler Monkey's ...

 

I'll detail it out  how *I'd* do it.

 

 

Start by getting a Cool Whip container or something to hold the nuts/bolts

in.

 

 - Jack up the wheel to be worked on

 

 - Take tire/rim off the truck

 

 - Remove the 2 caliper bolts and either disconnect the brake line from

the caliper or support the caliper so that the brake line is not

too distorted.

 

 - Unscrew the 6 bolts holding the locking hob dial on (this is assuming

you have manual locking hubs). Pull the hub dial off.

 

 - Unscrew the six nuts holding the hub body on out till they're flush

with the ends of the studs. Then take your brass drift or steel bar and

place it on the ends of the studs/nuts firmly with a hammer, This

is to remove the cone washers that are holding the hub body on. Give

it 2-3 firm blow then rotate the hub and hit the next. Don't just wail

on them, but hit them firmly. If you haven't ever had them off, it might

be good to start a few days early by coating the studs with WD40 in

case the cone washers are rusted in place. They can be a bear

to remove on some trucks. Just don't think that hitting the

hub body on the outside and deforming it will do you much good over

the life of the truck. Remove all 6 cone washers.

 

 - On IFS trucks remove the screw from the end of the axle, on solid

axle trucks remove the lock ring from the end of the axle shaft.

 

 - Pull the hub body off

 

 - Beat the tabs of the lock washer back that are holding the outer

spindle nut in place.

 

 - Remove the outer spindle nut.

 - Remove the lock washer.

 - Remove the inner spindle nut.

 

 - At this point, I usually grab the brake rotor firmly and just pull

the whole assembly off the spindle and try not to dump the outer bearing

out on the ground when it comes off the spindle.

 

 - Then remove the outer bearing from the hub and the washer that

presses against the outer bearing.

 

 - I have a seal puller that I use to remove the seal that holds

the inner bearing in. In past years I've turned the hub up and taken

a piece of wood and tapped the bearing/seal out the back side. Be

careful doing this if you're planning on re-using that bearing as you

can damage it easily.

 

- - Now that you've the hub completely disassembled. It's time to get the

races out of the hub body for the bearings you want to replace. I use

a 1/2" x 1/2" brass bar. It's sortof tricky getting those races out since

there isn't a very large surface of the race to hit on. Just hit a little

on this side, a little on that, side, going back and forth and it'll

come out. I'd defintely use a brass *something* ...

 

- - Then I'd clean/paint the hub while you've got it this far disassembled.

 

- - Drive in the new race(s) in the same manner as removing the old race.

 

- - Pack new inner bearing, put in inner bearing

- - Drive in new seal

- - Pack outer bearing

 

- - Either put outer bearing into it's race and slip whole unit onto

spindle or slip unit on spindle then put outer bearing in. Be careful

not to dump new/clean outer bearing on ground when putting it on spindle.

(I've done this ...)

 

 - Put washer with tit for slot in spindle on

 - Put inner spindle nut on

 - Torque spindle nut to 43 ft. Lbs.

 - Spin hub right 4-5 rotations

 - Spin hub left 4-5 rotations

 - Loosen inner spindle nut

 - Spin hub right 4-5 rotations

 - Spin hub left 4-5 rotations

 - Torque spindle nut to 43 ft. Lbs.

 - Spin hub right 4-5 rotations

 - Spin hub left 4-5 rotations

 - Loosen inner spindle nut

 - Spin hub right 4-5 rotations

 - Spin hub left 4-5 rotations

 - Torque spindle nut to ~21 ft. Lbs.

 

- - Put on locking tab washer

- - Screw outer spindle nut on till it's fairly tight

- - Bend one tab on the locking tab washer forward onto the

inner nut and one outwards onto a flat side of the

outer nut.

 

- - put locking hub body on

- - put cone washers and nuts on studs (coat the cone washers with

anti-sieze so that the next time you do this, the cone washers will

just pop right out with one blow)

 

- - Either put the screw back into the end of the axle or install the

lock ring depending if you have an IFS or solid axle truck.

 

- - Install hub dial and it's 6 screws ...

 

- - Blast the brake rotor down with an ozone depleting blast of brake cleaner.

- - Bolt caliper back up. and reattached brake line if it was disconnected.

 

- - put tire/rim back on

 

That should about do it. That's all from memory ... I've done this

a few too many times .... If you don't paint the hub, it's about a

2-2.5 hr job ...

 

 

 

 

 

 

 -----------------------------------------------------------------

 Jack Alford              Off-Road.com - The best dirt on the net!

 jalford@off-road.com              http://www.off-road.com/

 Decatur, AL

 

             '86 Xcab Toyota Pickup -  33x12.50 BFG MT

         Solid Front Axle - Marlin Crawler - ARB's - 4.88's

         SFWDA  -  TLCA #3415  -  Rocket City Rock Crawlers

 

------------------------------

------------------------------

 

Date: Tue, 12 Nov 1996 05:12:55 -0800

From: cruiser@akcache.com (Whatley,Mark)

Subject: need wheel bearing help

To: tlcal@tlca.org, blaw405@aol.com

 

Clipped from pevious post....

 

"Help! My 82 FJ60 suddenly developed a front wheel bearing problem. 

I was about to turn into my driveway this evening when I heard an

unusual squeaking noise.  After determining that it wasn't engine

related, I tried pushing the truck and found the sqeak to be in

the pass side front.  I put it in the driveway and jacked up the

front end.  The pass side wheel has noticable vertical play while

the drivers side has no play at all.

 

I called up a local garage, who has done reasonable work in the past. 

They rec rebuilding the trunions as well as replacing the bearings on

both sides - about $550 including 8 hours work.  Also he rec'd towing

to the garage to avoid damaging the spindle.

 

A second shop rec'd a simple repack job, replacing whatever bearings

need replacing.  145$ plus parts.

 

What should I do?  The truck has 104K miles on it and I don't know if

the bearings have ever been serviced.

 

Bruce 

TLCA #4889   "

 

 

First determine which bearings are bad. If the wheel shifts in relation

to the backing plate and caliper, it's the wheel bearings. If the whole

knuckle assembly shifts in relation to the axle, its the knuckle

(trunion) bearings. (If the noise is caused primarily