I have found the 24TPI "sawzall" brand blades will go though the
bolt like "butter".
Also - the teeth are cut so that the sawzall is "pulled" into
the bolt. Makes cutting real easy.
I too found it best to make two cuts. I now cut on the inside
of the hanger on both sides and then use a pry to spread the
hanger a tad.
Subject: Re: Steering knuckle Setup--shims
Byron wrote:
> Anybody have any details on how to set up the
> shims to give the correct preloads????
>
> I am not sure how to measure the preload and
> what it needs to be.
I think the conventional wisdom to use 0.040 shim thickness. I found enougn
0.020 shims in the Toyota kit to put a pair under each metal spacer. Seemed
to work fine on my '85, and made it *so* much smoother than when I put it
together w/ the factory spacer (it used no shims).
Subject: RE: knuckle bearings and seals
I just finished replacing all the seals and bearings in the front axle of
my 85 4runner, and here is what i found. The knuckle seals are available
from the dealer as a kit for the whole axle (about $95). This does not
include the axle shaft oil seals inside the axle housing, which i would
recommend changing if you have the axle torn apart that much anyway. These
seals are (should be) available at places like AutoZone. (Thats where i
got mine, along with the wheel bearings.) The knuckle bearings are
apparently only available through the dealer. The toyota part number is
90366-17001-77 and they cost me $30 a piece (and you need 4 of them) so
it gets expensive. These bearings are an odd tapered roller bearing ( i
have one sitting on my desk, with pitted rollers).
Note: I also switched to 4.88 R&P's and a locker in the rear, since the
axle shafts were out. It is a lot of work to tear down for bearing/seal
replacement (especially the knuckle seals) so if you ever want to change
gears or add a locker, i would recommend to do it all at once. My 4runner
was torn apart for about 2 weeks, mainly waiting on parts.
Justin
jkern@wvu.edu
Subject: re: knuckle bearings???????
Byron wrote:
>Hey guys
>Are the knuckle bearings made as a two piece setup?
>Is the inner and outer pieces separate?
The knuckle bearings are typical tapered roller bearings. There
is an inner race that is pressed into the knuckle (or pounded with
a brass punch) and the tapered bearing assy fits into it. This
provides the friction surface for the outer diameter of the
bearings. The outer contact surface for the bearings (top of the
upper bearing and the bottom of the lower bearing) is machined into
the steering arm on the top, and the plug on the bottom. There are
also shafts which go inside the inner diameter of the bearings
machined into the arms and plugs.
When I got my driver's side apart, and saw the loose roller shafts
and cage, I wondered the same thing. When I bought my replacements
and looked at them, it was obvious mine had been destroyed when I
pulled the steering off. My steering arm shaft had frozen on the
inside of the bearing, and destroyed it when I forced it off.
______________________________________________________________
Barney McNamara
Just like a wheel bearing replacement, there are two slots in the seat for
the outter race in the knuckle. I would recommend using a brass bar or at
least deburr the edge of the punch that you use. I dumb a**ed and didn't do
either of these things and ended up with a nice row of punch marks on each
bearing seat. Thank goodness for emery cloth! The knuckle bearing caps
didn't require a SST, I just used a 12" 3/8 drive extension to gently
persuade the lower cap out. It takes about three hands and some creative
language to hold everything in place when reassembling the knuckle, but it
can be done without any fancy tools. Drain the diff before you start, and
leave the tie rod off 'till after you refill it. And fill the knuckle up
full with the grease of your choice untill you can't possibly shove any more
goo in there. best of luck on staying clean :-)
Date: Thu, 20 Mar 1997 09:22:37 -0500
From: Ed.Wong@astramerck.com
Subject: Replacing front wheel bearings
To: " - (052)ej (a) animal.blarg.net"
Eric:
The first time its a bear - I took my time and it was an all day job
(uh - painting the brake dust shield and other parts did take up much of
that time)
Dont forget the brass bar for driving out the races.
What many dont know - is that bearings are "universal" to some extent.
As long as its a reputable suplier - they should be OK
(i.e. - dont bother with the dealer for "yota" bearings - they are all
the same)
Also go back and look up the "cone lock washer" stuff about getting the
manual hubs off.
I haven an 88/89 4Runner - which uses 86-88 type parts
Inner bearing
race - 4T-JLM104910PK
bearing - 4T-JLM104948PK
Outter bearing
race - 4T-LM102910
bearing - 4T-LM102948
Ive had good luck with Timken brand bearings.
Congrats on finishing *gradual* school
EWong
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 20 Mar 1997 10:53:59 -0600
From: Jack Alford
Subject: Replacing front wheel bearings
To: toy4x4@tlca.org
Eric Johnson wrote:
>Well, I finally finished grad school (last night!), so I'm going to have
>some time to get to some projects on the 4runner.
Congrats !
>My most annoying current problem is a vibration in the front end that I'm
>80% sure is the left wheel bearings. I've never replaced or repacked the
>bearings myself before, how tough is this? (how many bananas? :) I think
>I've got all the necessary tools, including a spindle nut wrench, torque
>wrench, and the factory manual. I've got 140k on this bearing, I'll
>probably just replace it rather than repack it. Is there a brand or type of
>grease anyone recommends? What all do I need to do a complete job on one
>side? I assume theres an inner and outer race and bearing, and a seal or
>two. Anything else?
Tools you'll also need:
- A large brass punch or 1/2"x1/2" piece of steel 4-5" long
- A brass punch to drive the races out.
This is about a 1.5-2 banana job .... Opposable thumbs only, no need
to communicate abstract ideas to other Shade Tree Howler Monkey's ...
I'll detail it out how *I'd* do it.
Start by getting a Cool Whip container or something to hold the nuts/bolts
in.
- Jack up the wheel to be worked on
- Take tire/rim off the truck
- Remove the 2 caliper bolts and either disconnect the brake line from
the caliper or support the caliper so that the brake line is not
too distorted.
- Unscrew the 6 bolts holding the locking hob dial on (this is assuming
you have manual locking hubs). Pull the hub dial off.
- Unscrew the six nuts holding the hub body on out till they're flush
with the ends of the studs. Then take your brass drift or steel bar and
place it on the ends of the studs/nuts firmly with a hammer, This
is to remove the cone washers that are holding the hub body on. Give
it 2-3 firm blow then rotate the hub and hit the next. Don't just wail
on them, but hit them firmly. If you haven't ever had them off, it might
be good to start a few days early by coating the studs with WD40 in
case the cone washers are rusted in place. They can be a bear
to remove on some trucks. Just don't think that hitting the
hub body on the outside and deforming it will do you much good over
the life of the truck. Remove all 6 cone washers.
- On IFS trucks remove the screw from the end of the axle, on solid
axle trucks remove the lock ring from the end of the axle shaft.
- Pull the hub body off
- Beat the tabs of the lock washer back that are holding the outer
spindle nut in place.
- Remove the outer spindle nut.
- Remove the lock washer.
- Remove the inner spindle nut.
- At this point, I usually grab the brake rotor firmly and just pull
the whole assembly off the spindle and try not to dump the outer bearing
out on the ground when it comes off the spindle.
- Then remove the outer bearing from the hub and the washer that
presses against the outer bearing.
- I have a seal puller that I use to remove the seal that holds
the inner bearing in. In past years I've turned the hub up and taken
a piece of wood and tapped the bearing/seal out the back side. Be
careful doing this if you're planning on re-using that bearing as you
can damage it easily.
- - Now that you've the hub completely disassembled. It's time to get the
races out of the hub body for the bearings you want to replace. I use
a 1/2" x 1/2" brass bar. It's sortof tricky getting those races out since
there isn't a very large surface of the race to hit on. Just hit a little
on this side, a little on that, side, going back and forth and it'll
come out. I'd defintely use a brass *something* ...
- - Then I'd clean/paint the hub while you've got it this far disassembled.
- - Drive in the new race(s) in the same manner as removing the old race.
- - Pack new inner bearing, put in inner bearing
- - Drive in new seal
- - Pack outer bearing
- - Either put outer bearing into it's race and slip whole unit onto
spindle or slip unit on spindle then put outer bearing in. Be careful
not to dump new/clean outer bearing on ground when putting it on spindle.
(I've done this ...)
- Put washer with tit for slot in spindle on
- Put inner spindle nut on
- Torque spindle nut to 43 ft. Lbs.
- Spin hub right 4-5 rotations
- Spin hub left 4-5 rotations
- Loosen inner spindle nut
- Spin hub right 4-5 rotations
- Spin hub left 4-5 rotations
- Torque spindle nut to 43 ft. Lbs.
- Spin hub right 4-5 rotations
- Spin hub left 4-5 rotations
- Loosen inner spindle nut
- Spin hub right 4-5 rotations
- Spin hub left 4-5 rotations
- Torque spindle nut to ~21 ft. Lbs.
- - Put on locking tab washer
- - Screw outer spindle nut on till it's fairly tight
- - Bend one tab on the locking tab washer forward onto the
inner nut and one outwards onto a flat side of the
outer nut.
- - put locking hub body on
- - put cone washers and nuts on studs (coat the cone washers with
anti-sieze so that the next time you do this, the cone washers will
just pop right out with one blow)
- - Either put the screw back into the end of the axle or install the
lock ring depending if you have an IFS or solid axle truck.
- - Install hub dial and it's 6 screws ...
- - Blast the brake rotor down with an ozone depleting blast of brake cleaner.
- - Bolt caliper back up. and reattached brake line if it was disconnected.
- - put tire/rim back on
That should about do it. That's all from memory ... I've done this
a few too many times .... If you don't paint the hub, it's about a
2-2.5 hr job ...
-----------------------------------------------------------------
Jack Alford Off-Road.com - The best dirt on the net!
jalford@off-road.com http://www.off-road.com/
Decatur, AL
'86 Xcab Toyota Pickup - 33x12.50 BFG MT
Solid Front Axle - Marlin Crawler - ARB's - 4.88's
SFWDA - TLCA #3415 - Rocket City Rock Crawlers
------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 1996 05:12:55 -0800
From: cruiser@akcache.com (Whatley,Mark)
Subject: need wheel bearing help
To: tlcal@tlca.org, blaw405@aol.com
Clipped from pevious post....
"Help! My 82 FJ60 suddenly developed a front wheel bearing problem.
I was about to turn into my driveway this evening when I heard an
unusual squeaking noise. After determining that it wasn't engine
related, I tried pushing the truck and found the sqeak to be in
the pass side front. I put it in the driveway and jacked up the
front end. The pass side wheel has noticable vertical play while
the drivers side has no play at all.
I called up a local garage, who has done reasonable work in the past.
They rec rebuilding the trunions as well as replacing the bearings on
both sides - about $550 including 8 hours work. Also he rec'd towing
to the garage to avoid damaging the spindle.
A second shop rec'd a simple repack job, replacing whatever bearings
need replacing. 145$ plus parts.
What should I do? The truck has 104K miles on it and I don't know if
the bearings have ever been serviced.
Bruce
TLCA #4889 "
First determine which bearings are bad. If the wheel shifts in relation
to the backing plate and caliper, it's the wheel bearings. If the whole
knuckle assembly shifts in relation to the axle, its the knuckle
(trunion) bearings. (If the noise is caused primarily