Found Chuy's at this address:
Chuy's Auto Electric
619 N Ford Blvd.
Los Angeles, CA 90022
> I know that you can have your factory alternator re-wound to put out a
> higher amperage. Has anyone in the Southern California area had any
> success with a shop doing this? I searched and found that Alan Wakeman
> mentioned a place called Chuy's Auto. Does anyone else have any
> input/ideas? Does anyone know where Chuy's is? Thanks!
Date: Wed, 13 Oct 1999 14:46:24 -0400
From: Brian Sneed <a4xgator@ufl.edu>
Subject: Re: Need a battery
>>Ok, so any suggestions for a battery
for my truck? My 1100 cca CO-OP battery
has finally seen it's last winching session,
and the local CO-OP doesn't sell
them anymore, so I need a new one. I would love an Optima, but am not
wanting to spend a lot of money at the
moment (but may be persuaded). Any
suggestions for a good battery?<<
I personally would recommend a Delco Marine
battery. I got mine a Discount Auto
parts for
69.99 + tax. It is a sealed battery and works awesome. I winched all day one time when I was
in the everglades for a competition and the
battery just would not quit. It also
has multiple
points to attach wires and such to the
battery. Optima's are overrated and overpriced-- save
your money and get the Delco.
Brian Sneed
86 pickup
a4xgator@ufl.edu
Date: Wed, 13 Oct 1999 14:55:06 -0500 (CDT)
From: Brian Wiencek
<bwiencek@kcnet.com>
Subject: Re: Need a battery
> >>Ok, so any suggestions for a
battery for my truck?
>
> I personally would recommend a Delco
Marine battery.
I'll add to this if you do get a marine deep
cycle battery make sure you
get the starting / trolling rated one - they
can deliver more current than
the trolling only batteries and generally
has a bit bigger reserve.
-
- brian
Date: Mon, 10 Jan 2000 09:39:24 -0800
From: "Roger Brown, P.E."
<rogerb@pisco.engr.sgi.com>
Subject: Re: Front Park Lights used as turn
sigs
Thom wrote:
> I just unplugged the turn signals and
the corner lights and swapped
> wires. Chris is right, they flash very
fast this way. A more effective
> way to do it is as he did by putting
the correct bulb in the
> lense/reflector, or by putting a
resistor in series with the existing
> bulb. I did neither because hopefully
soon I will have the new front
> bumper on the truck with the stock turn
signal lights in it.
I converted mine over two years ago, even
while I had a bumper with mounts for
the stock turn signals. One benefit of the combined lights is that
folks to
the side can see the turn signal as
well. My parking lamps are full amber
lens and I used an 1157 dual filament bulb.
- --
Roger Brown
http://reality.sgi.com/rogerb/4x4/CheapTricks/TurnSignal.html#CombinedLights
Date: Mon, 22 Nov 1999 11:00:39 -0700
From: "Scott Ellinger"
<ellinger@frii.com>
Subject: Re: Hawker batteries?
> I don't know why everybody flocks to
the Optimas... Maybe it's the space
> consuming "6-pack" look...
I'm not sure why everybody flocks to
Optimas, either. But I've got one
in my Toy, installed another in a friend's
truck, and will probably be
replacing my backup battery in the Toy with
another Optima.
Why?
I like 'em. :) Dual terminals, sideways installation, and
their
inherent vibration and impact resistance are
all selling points to me.
So's their warranty... my first Optima died
after about 1.5 years or
so, after having survived a year with a
quarter-sized hole in one side
of the case. They replaced it, free. I
wasn't expecting that.
And the last conventional battery I had
before the Optima... lived all
of three months. Not abused (didn't even have a winch then) or
anything unusual, just the vibration and
bouncing of four wheeling.
It's not that I'm opposed to other similar
batteries; it's just that I've
had very good experiences (convenience, too;
I can buy 'em from
my local 4x4 shop) with Optimas.
- --scott
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 22 Nov 1999 10:12:20 -0800
From: "Roger Brown, P.E."
<rogerb@pisco.engr.sgi.com>
Subject: Re: Hawker batteries?
joe wrote:
> with winter approaching i'm realizing
it's getting to be time to buy a new
> battery. i was wondering if anyone had
experiences with the hawker
> batteries? although not as trendy, they
seem to have superior construction
> and performance compared to the
optimas.
>
>
http://www.off-road.com/isuzu/womb_hawker.html
> http://www.hepi.com
>
> are there other reasonably-priced
batteries out there with similar
> construction and characteristics?
>
> if anyone has experience with them, i'd
appreciate hearing about it.
If I'm not mistaken, I think Hawker
manufactures the Black Panther batteries,
which I've been running for about 6 months
now. It looks like the G26EP is
identical to the BP800MJ and the G42EP is
the same as the BP1000MJ. They are
built like a tanks, fully metal jacketed,
with brass terminals. I've had mine
fully discharged a few times now and they
come back as strong as ever. With
two in parallel, I can now start in 1st gear
high range. If you are going
single battery, i'd highly recommend the
42AH/1000CCA battery.
- --
Roger Brown
http://reality.sgi.com/rogerb/4x4/CheapTricks/DualBatteries.html
http://reality.sgi.com/rogerb/4x4/BlackPanther.html
Date: Fri, 15 Oct 1999 14:09:11 EDT
From: DRM033@AOL.COM
Subject: higher output alternator for 22RE
Does anyone know of any way to get a higher
output alternator for a 22RE? I
checked the local parts store, and found
that the stock one for a 22RE w/ 5
speed is 60 amps, and the one for the
automatic is 70 amps. Can these be
interchanged?
Anyone else know of a way to get a higher
rated one in there short of one of
the ones for an onbord welder?
Is having mine rewound at a local shop an
option to get an increase, or are
there problems with this?
On the ORC Toyota BBS someone mentioned
using one from a Mitsu Mirage that
was 90 amp, but I am not seeing that rating
from the research I have done so
far.
He claimed it was pretty much a bolt in deal with only some wiring to
figure out.
BTW, I am not concerned if I have to make
some brackets, jost looking for a
starting point.
David
DRM033@aol.com
http://www.tennessee4x4.com/toyota
------------------------------
High Output Alternator
Date: Fri, 15 Oct 1999 16:52:09 -0400
From: "Bud R" <budr@softhome.net>
Subject: RE: higher output alternator for 22RE
Brian installed a MR2 alt in his V6 .
I think it was 90-100 amp. Check
it
out at: http:\\kap.kreative.net
I know it isn't a 22RE but it may give you some more ideas and some
things
to compare at the parts store/junkyard.
Bud
Date: Mon, 17 Apr 2000 17:46:26 -0700
From: Thom Singer <ntsqd@shocking.com>
Subject: Re: Dual Batteries
This thread was just on another of the lists I'm on. Here is what I wrote and a quoted email:
To extend on this good advice, call Del City Wire at 800.654.4757 and ask for a catalog. They
carry anything you're likely to need for just about any wiring project
including color coded battery cable from 6 gauge to 4/0, lugs, terminals, etc. Constant duty
soleniods are made by Cole-Hersee (sp?), just about any real auto parts store
ought to have a listing for them. The last one I bought was under $20. The isolator I bought
b4 that was about the same.
On-line vendors I have links for:
http://www.centechwire.com/
http://www.mechman.com/
http://www.hellausa.com/
http://www.westmarine.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/CategoryDisplay?cgmenbr=201&cgrfnbr=9
http://www.wire-works.com/
http://www.painlesswiring.com/
>
> One important thing that you'll not want to ignore when running long battery
> cables through the firewall and along the body. Make sure that you protect
> the cable from spots where it might rub through. You could get some heater
> hose and put that around cables as you put it in. This is important. It
> might work fine for awhile, and then one day it will rub through in an out of
> the way spot and you'll burn your whole truck down. Well enough of that now.
> Find a good spot to mount your extra battery and lay out the run of your
> cables. Then measure the distance, going around all the curves etc. then add
> a couple of extra inches just to make sure you've got enough. Get two
> different colors of elec. tape to mark both ends in a couple of spots. Hook
> up the positive to positive, and the negative to negative. If you can get to
> the frame where your second battery is, then you could hook the neg to frame.
> It would probablly be better to run two cables though. You could use the
> extra battery to run your accesories,(stereo, lights...), saving the first
> one for starting the engine. To do this you could get a '100% duty cycle'
> starting selinoid and use it to hook up the positive leads, and have it
> energized from the ignition side of the key switch. Or get a battery
> isolator($$$$) and use it to keep the two seperate. If you go with the
> starting selinoid, you have to use one that is rated at 100% duty cycle, or
> it will melt in a couple of hours. If you can't find battery cables long
> enough, then #4 or #1 weld cable works pretty good. Size it according to
> what your asking of it. Bigger is always better.
Also, if you can find an Anchor Marine catalog they have a simple graph in them for figuring
out what size wire to use for a given distance and load. I seem to recall Roger
Brown also had something on his site in this regard, Roger ?
- --
TS
Chico, CA
I can't come to work today, the voices said to stay home and clean the guns.